2004 6.0 Adventure- Need Help - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 32 Old 05-16-2017, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
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2004 6.0 Adventure- Need Help

Ok so as the name implies I am an amature here and the problems started with my 2004 6.0 a year ago.

First things first - I had problems with a huge coolant leak, filling it up every few weeks. To fix this I had a buddy, who knows a bit more than me change the degas bottle coolant lines flush the radiator and new water pump. When it was finished I went to pick it up and no start. We ended up spraying starter fluid in the intake to get it started and get it home.

Second thing - The no start problem, after some troubleshooting I gave in and sent it to a pro with 6.0s. He switched out the hpop and oil cooler (discovered this is where the coolant was leaking) and a few other minor parts. After this the truck ran great but he warned me injectors would need to be changed soon.

Third thing - A couple months later the truck started billowing black smoke with no power take off. I could rev it out of gear but as soon as I shifted I got sputtering black smoke and almost no power. So with direction he gave me I assumed the injectors were starting to stick. Having put about $4500 in it to this point I couldn't afford $3000 to have the pro switch out the injectors. So bright idea I have above average mechanical aptitude so I'm thinking yeah I can switch them out. So I bought a set of reman injectors from Warren Diesel in Pennsylvania (good reviews). So looked up a youtube video and got to work.

Getting them out hit a little snag when I stripped out the hold down bolt on #7. So I ended up grinding the bolt off with a dremel to free the injector. Spent a week with all manner of magnets I could find cleaning it out until there was no visible shavings. Got to work putting them in. Here is where I made the second mistake I wasn't observant enough to realize that the shipping plugs on the oil inlet of the injectors were not o rings but indeed were shipping plugs but I put it all back together and after about 8 cranks of about 20 seconds it actually fired and ran. (I realize now how surprising that is that it ran with almost 100 percent clogged injectors). So I had it running but I was getting the same no power take off in gear.

So I had another buddy I know come out with a scanner and he found almost no fuel pressure (duh). So I took the injectors out and realized that what I thought was an oring was not. So thankfully the plugs were still in one piece and I pulled them out. Reinstalled the injectors (I did not have a torque wrench and was kinda guessing on the torque, Yes I realize this was another problem now). So when the truck was put all back together it took about three cranks and it fired. This time is was running good. Power in gear all was good..... for about a half mile. Stopped at a stop sign and the black smoke and sputtering returned. Parked it for a month tired of dicking with it, also getting married so didn't have time.

No fast forward to 2 weeks ago. Had the buddy scan it again he was reading codes on #7 and #8 and trying to get it started he hydrolocked it. So the last two weeks I removed the injectors again to see that #8 had a torn o ring and #7 wasn't plugged in all the way. So I fixed the oring and bought a torque wrench. Reinstalled them to the correct torque which was way more than I was putting on them with my guessing. Because when i removed them this time the hold down bolts on #8 and #2 were loose. So with the injectors in with the correct torque I also took all the glow plugs out to drain the cylinders. Now the truck is back together with new plugs and harnesses and it fires right up and idles fine, and revs fine. I have not driven it because I don't have the inner fenders reinstalled yet. The problem I am getting now is I have clouds of white smoke smelling like diesel coming out the exhaust.

So finally the here is the question... What do you think is going on. I have read that running the piss out of the truck will clear the smoke in 10 - 20 minutes or so after a hydrolock. If this is not the case the other problems I believe could be happening is that with all the times the injectors have been in and out the copper crush washers aren't sealing. Or as I noticed that #3 injector looks a mm or two higher than the rest of the injectors on that side even fully torqued down. Hoping that this is not a bent rod situation.

A few other things updated since I started is the Exhaust back pressure sensor, the egr valve, egr cooler, and oil stand pipes.

Any insight would be appreciated
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post #2 of 32 Old 05-16-2017, 09:15 AM
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It seems that you have been very fortunate up until now. You may not think so, but you have. White smoke with a diesel smell is a game changer, though. I would be very concerned about melting a cylinder.

That said... I'm mostly just replying to watch the discussion. Let's see what the gurus have to say.

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post #3 of 32 Old 05-16-2017, 09:22 AM Thread Starter
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Not saying I haven't been. This is the first time the white smoke has shown up it was always black. Just hoping I can get away with what I have learned without making it a hard lesson learned.
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post #4 of 32 Old 05-16-2017, 09:41 AM
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So this is an interesting story ...

First, I applaud all your efforts. Very few people are patient enough to do everything you did ... Many times ... And to no avail. So good on you for that.

About your problems ... I'll offer a few tips.

#1: Injectors: When changing injectors, always always always lubricate the fuel-sealing O-Rings (the large ones on the body of the injector) before you put them in. I use engine assembly lube because it's thick and doesn't run. You can use some engine oil, a little grease, whatever but I would use assembly lube cause it stays right where you put it.

#2: Injector crush washer: Double check the crush washer ... I've seen it probably a dozen times where someone changes the injectors or reseals their injectors and they somehow have 2 crush washers on one injector ... Don't do that.

#3 Hydrolock: yes, you could have bent a rod or done some damage to the rings ... In fact, there's almost certainly some damage to the cylinder that locked, but probably not enough to be a big deal. There might be some tiny ring deflection or something, but the Pistons are quite strong in the 6.0 and pretty hard to ruin, even by locking the motor.

#4 Diagnosis - it seems you have some access to a scanner to see what your truck is doing, but I don't think you're using the scanner to its potential. If the truck has a problem, be SURE that you find the problem BEFORE spending any money on parts. For example, I've never, ever, ever seen a motor (gas, diesel, or alcohol) grenade all of its injectors simultaneously under normal operation. High boost and nitrous, sure, but under normal operation there's no way. If you need an injector, you will see it on a contribution test!! Finding out you need injectors for sure is alot cheaper than a set of 8 for no reason.

#5: White smoke: I would pull the injectors again. Grab seal kits, because they're cheap, and change them very carefully. Lubricate the O-Rings and make sure you have only 1 crush washer on each. If you can get your hands on a bore scope, look down into the cylinders for damage or in case the old washer is still somehow stuck in the bore on the "1mm higher than the others" injector. If your truck has a catalytic, yes it will take a little while to clear the white smoke.

#6 Hydrolock pt2: If any motor is ever flooded, you must must must change the engine oil. Fuel will leak down past the rings and contaminate the oil. Fuel cleans oil off parts. You don't want that. Change your oil and filter before driving the piss out of anything.

#7: What would I do? : Reseal the injectors as mentioned very carefully and change the engine oil. Then run a contribution test to see if you have any injectors behaving badly. If so, we chase those cylinders. Swap injectors between good cylinders and bad ones, do the test again. If the problem follows the injectors, you know that the base engine is OK. If it doesn't, you've bent something (but probably not). If you've found that some injectors are no good, hope that the salesman never sees this post and try to get them to warranty them. Reinstall and you should be fine. If all injectors are OK and you still have problems, I would start chasing down a turbo problem. Black smoke usually means lots of fuel, not enough boost. White smoke is WAY too much fuel, boost or not.

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post #5 of 32 Old 05-16-2017, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your advice I did end up reading some info on lubricating the o-rings and I did that on the last install with some engine oil (and will do that on any injector replacement from here on, chalk it up to another lesson of many).

As far as the crush washers I had two new ones that came with the torn o-ring I replaced and one that showed some wear. I ended up with one extra after I installed them the last time on the passenger side. I wouldn't doubt that one has a double I don't have access to a bore scope but I reached my phone in with the flash on and looked through the camera multiple times and as far as I could tell no cup had one left in it. I will look into getting my hands on a bore scope and change out the seals on the passenger side and get a closer look down the cup. The driver side has always seemed to be flawless when I took them out (no blow back) I'm hoping it is one of those times where I look back and ask myself why I hurried through the passenger side. I hate that the crush washers come with the entire kit when I need just a part that is probably a few cents in a $13 dollar pack. But in hindsight it would maybe have saved me this next tear down had I just gotten them.

With the hydrolock it was most certainly #8 ( might have my numbers mixed up, back one on the passenger side). The injector which I have been calling #3 is second from the front on passenger side. The reason why I say #8 is that it was the only one that blew fluid out the glow plug socket.

Going forward I'll take the passenger side out make damn sure there is no washers left. Get 4 kits and reseal each of them the get the scanner and see where I'm at. Also I change oil and filters after the injectors are in.

Not sure if the truck has a catalytic, guess I'll google it.
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post #6 of 32 Old 05-16-2017, 11:48 AM
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...Not sure if the truck has a catalytic, guess I'll google it.
Since you said you'd "google it" and not "climb under and look for it," I'm thinking that you may not have caught that he just means catalytic converter. Just look under the truck at the passenger door. You'll either see a depth-charge-looking thing or you won't.

It's hard to miss. That's for sure.


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post #7 of 32 Old 05-16-2017, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by djmaguire View Post
Since you said you'd "google it" and not "climb under and look for it," I'm thinking that you may not have caught that he just means catalytic converter. Just look under the truck at the passenger door. You'll either see a depth-charge-looking thing or you won't.

It's hard to miss. That's for sure.

Hahaha I've hit my head on them many times. Very hard to miss.

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post #8 of 32 Old 05-16-2017, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
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So just got home from work and yes the truck does have a catalytic converter, thanks for the picture. Tried a crank to see what it would do. 10 second crank, got nothing. Will start demoing injectors today see what I find. Do you suggest I pull the plugs again so it doesn't hydrolock?
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post #9 of 32 Old 05-16-2017, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Amature View Post
So just got home from work and yes the truck does have a catalytic converter, thanks for the picture. Tried a crank to see what it would do. 10 second crank, got nothing. Will start demoing injectors today see what I find. Do you suggest I pull the plugs again so it doesn't hydrolock?
You can crank all day long , the motor won't lock if the O-Rings on the injectors are OK. If fuel is getting into the chamber, it will ignite with the compression. Remember, no spark means you only need fuel to make ignition.

Do you have a scanner you can use? Watch FICM volts, FICM sync, ICP pressure, ICP volts, and IPR while cranking and report what values you get.

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post #10 of 32 Old 05-16-2017, 01:32 PM
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@amplituderacing beat me! ^^^^
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I'm gonna leave the hydrolock question to @amplituderacing . What I do feel comfortable suggesting is to disconnect that catalytic converter. Maybe just for now, maybe forever. Here is why...

You need to know if your engine is smoking, not something else. The crap trapped in the screen or pooled in the bottom of a cat is just adding to the confusion.

2004 F550 CC Lariat
BPD oil cooler relocation and upgraded EGR cooler (spooled), BPD oil bypass filtration, aFe Magnum Force CAI, Mishi radiator, EC1 ELC, XDP coolant bypass filtration, '08 trans pan/filter, PTP direct clutch solenoid, blue spring, 6.4 starter, MBRP y-pipe, BD boots/clamps, '05 intake elbow, ccv reroute, Torque Pro + OBDLinkô LX, Autometer EGT
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