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no icp!

10K views 157 replies 10 participants last post by  tregrad 
#1 ·
ok, i had just got done fixing this thing, redid all the orings on injectors, nipple cup orings on oil rail and things were running awesome.
I had forgot to put the clip back on the water hose that goes over the pass side valve cover and it blew off and all my antifreeze went bye bye. i was right next to my house and none of the gauges read hot so got it home and the gauges still didnt read hot so all was good. filled it up with distilled water in a hurry to get it cooled off and it did fine. today however is a different story, i keep my scan gauge II on the ready with my icp, volts, ficm. all read really good but i had noticed a longer crank to start today. so im driving down the highway and POOF the engine completely shut down and icp went down to next to nothing and kept going down.had a friend tow me home and when i got home i checked my fluids etc. degas bottle was empty and when i tried to turn it over icp was at 30, a couple cranks later it was at Zero. Ipr was at 80ish.
did running out of antifreeze ruin something to do with my oil pressure? and if so what would be the best way to approach this thing.
 
#2 ·
I'd bet that:

a) The coolant bath shorted something out; or,
b) Something that you just worked on started leaking and it's unrelated to the coolant craziness.

I suppose - to start - I'd let it dry more and try to start it again. Otherwise, ready yourself for a stroll down the HPOP leak diagnosis path.
 
#3 ·
Try unplugging the ICP to see if anything happens.

If it's the hose I'm thinking of that feeds the heater core, it's right by the ICP. If the ICP is unplugged the PCM will go into inferred mode and pretend to get a correct ICP reading to get the truck going. That is the only electronic component on the passenger side I can think of that would cause a no start with no oil pressure is the ICP.
 
#4 ·
When I had 0 ICP pressure it was the low pressure oil pump. Try removing the oil filter, plug the drain hole and have someone crank. If after 30s of cranking you don't see any oil, then its the low pressure oil pump.
 
#5 ·
Oh I forgot to mention - of you unplug the ICP, the PCM automatically goes into fake ICP mode in which it pretends to have enough pressure to start the engine. So if the ICP did get unplugged, it shouldn't make you no start. However, you can unplug it to see if you have a bad ICP and it will fool the computer to think it has enoguh pressure. If that make sense. So you can try unplugging the ICP first before you remove the oil filter as I suggested above...
 
#6 ·
so, went on vacation for two weeks and when i got back i unplugged the icp sensor and again.... no joy.
as dj said i went for a stroll down the oil leak trail and have it down to the hpop AGAIN. no noise coming from the pass side oil rail etc. so i removed the gutts all the way to the hpop. i hit the air again and could hear a sound at the back of the valley but couldnt feel any air coming from the BB on the hpop. unplugged the air from the oil rail, plugged the hose and stuck air directly into the hpop with an air chuck and could visibly see a fine oil mist coming from somewhere in the valley. i am suspicious of the stand pipe on the driver side only because there was a **** load of debris on the ipr screen, some of wich was green in color and could be the plastic retaining o ring on it? and a bunch of other crap.
one positive note on all this bs is that i could probably open my own 6.0 shop and make a killing with it lmao. know this thing like the back of my hand hahaaha.
thanks in advance for the help as always.
 
#7 ·
You wouldn't happen to have a Dorman oil cooler, do you?

-jokester
 
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#9 ·
You just mentioned green stuff, and the Dorman oil cooler gasket is green and known for coming apart and leaving pieces of gasket material all throughout the oil system. I'm not saying this is what it is, just a thought.

-jokester
 
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#10 ·
They're wondering if it looked like this:

 
#13 ·
That wasn't my IPR. That's just a Google image of what the old Dorman oil cooler seals turned into.

It could be that a Dorman was in your truck at one time and there's still a little crap floating around. Hard to say.
 
#14 ·
I'd guess the HPOP screen is torn too. That size debris shouldn't have gotten to the IPR if the screen was good.
 
#16 ·
Yes, the screen under the oil cooler. The HPOP feeds directly off of the oil that flows through it.
 
#17 ·
ok got oil cooler off and the screen had debris on it but not an overwhelming amount however the gasket on the oil cooler does have a splitin it where teh water either comes in or goes out. it doesnt look like something that would create a "no icp" issue though. the gasket is green and i had some green debris on my ipr valce screen. I put some pics up of the oil cooler gasket and maybe you can tell me if that was the culprit.
one other thins is, is that screen bent? looks tweeked a bit
 

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#19 ·
OEM is better than the other aftermarket liquid cooled coolers. An air cooled BPD cooler may be a better choice, but much more expensive and labor intensive to install.
 
#21 ·
from what ive been reading it sounds like when the hose popped off and lost all my coolant then filled it up again that it is basically like doing a flush and without the coolant filter the OC got clogged?
would that in turn create a oil leak in the high pressure oil sysetm?
 
#22 ·
I'm not signing up for either of those theories. If it lost coolant and you replaced it with the same coolant, that wouldn't clog an oil cooler. The main reason people clog oil coolers when flushing is using the chemicals to loosen everything up.

Did you replace the coolant with the SAME coolant. Mixing coolant types will clog a cooler. Were you running Ford Gold? Overheating that stuff would clog a cooler.

Next theory... Overheating causing an HPOP issue. Not jumping on that one either. IMHO, it's more likely they you nicked an o-ring during your reinstallation. The HPOP system just isn't so dependent on anything else.

Last... regarding the PPE cooler. AFAIK, all of the aftermarket coolers are made by the same Chinese manufacturer. Sounds like PPE is marrying it to some nice gaskets. ...but it's still a Sinister, Dorman, or whatever cooler.

The cooler is gonna end being up your call. The PPE will run with a higher delta than OEM, but - if that doesn't bother you and you're not pulling 8-ton trailers - maybe it doesn't matter.

Your observation about temps and air-to-oil systems is valid. The relocation system that I have behaves better than I'd expect an air-to-oil would in cold Midwest winters.
 
#23 ·
Seriously, have you checked that you have base oil pressure? It seems like you skipped the easy steps. You can check base oil pressure pretty easily.... Just saying.
 
#24 ·
yes i had base oil pressure goddom.
i had to put water in it as i didnt have coolant on hand and didnt know it had to be the same.
a wire also broke off on the oil cooler case so i need to replace that but dont know what it is (pictured) can i buy this fitting with a pigtail and rewire it?
i cant get the picture to upload, its the wirethat plugs in right behind the oil filter.
got the pic up, im holding the end that goes onto the turbo and the wire that broke off the connection right behind the wire.
 

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#25 ·
That's your oil pressure sender/switch.
 
#26 ·
Motorcraft pigtail is a 3U2Z-14S411-MHA

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