2005 6.0.
Okay so I know this is BAD and that I know I need a new oil cooler. But im a little confused about somethings. So on normal driving for delta's I get an average of 12-13 deltas not crazy but I know its soon time. So im gearing up for a new oil cooler anyways. But here is the thing im confused about. I read and read about the "wrench" light going on after a 15-20 difference for more than like 15 min. But mine never came on until this weekend when I took the wife and kids camping in Herber AZ. There are some 8% grades and 6% grades mostly and some can be for an extended time. To my horror my EOT was slowly creeping into my nightmares. By the time I got up the hill my numbers where ECT 196 EOT 260!!!. However on the way down they would go back down to good delta's. Only after 260 did the wrench light come on. Why did it take a 64 degree delta to throw a wrench light. Shouldn't it come on way before that. At about 250 is when I heard the as my wife calls it "Scary Noise" clutch fan. Should that also come on sooner. I experienced no loss of boost and it would down shift fine even with the wrench light. I was empty minus the usual camping gear and wood in the back.
So to sum this up. (I did spend alot of time searching before hand)
1. Thoughts on why it took so long for the "wrench" light to come on.
2. Since after pulling the hill my deltas came back around, could it just be that I need to change the oil and filters.
3. Clutch fan not coming on fast enough
4. I use a wireless monitor (Dash Command) Not reading right? EOT was not fluctuating like a bad sensor. It was a slow progression.
i am having the same exact problems. just changed out my oil cooler and still having the same problems. if i were to do it again i would look in to doing the chemical reverse flush first before a oil cooler change out.. there is a link in my post, "EOT 260* AFTER COOLER CHANGE"
Yeah Ive been reading your Thread. It actually came to mind while I was pulling the hill. I just got the truck about a year ago and dont know about the history other than the Oasis and its only good til the warranty runs out. Ive been monitoring it for a while now and it has never done this until this weekend and it wasnt a fast spike, it was gradual and returned to a happy temp soon after. I love the truck but man oh man, feels like every time I take it out that is a crap shoot. Having a mad wife and two screaming toddlers in car seats gives me the shakes.
do you have any mods? (EGR delete)? like I said. if i had to start over, i would start with checking actual temps with a laser thermometer, then replace sensors or do a flush after that. if you think your wife is mad now, put $1500 into it and it still doesnt work. where are you at? i live just outside of heber az.
Nope, no mods. I live in Chandler AZ. The wife n kids love camping pretty much from Payson to Herber. We camped off of Road 504 last weekend. Camping season isnt for a week or so but you already know that.
keep us updated with the results. i am curious to see what works for you. i will do the same. what rpm does your fan clutch start squealing? mine does the same thing at around 2700 when it down shifts on an incline. (side note) another good camping area is the #144 rd that goes south to the #300 (rim road) just east of heber. camped out there for a week last fall for an elk hunt. good luck
(side note) another good camping area is the #144 rd that goes south to the #300 (rim road) just east of heber. camped out there for a week last fall for an elk hunt. good luck
Nice! Thank you. Have a spot off of #300 that we go to a lot. No phone reception/no bathrooms just perfection. Kids love to go stick hunting and then get their best stick (bear gun) they found and we go bear hunting. My oldest talks so much, there is no way we are sneaking up on anything but its fun none the less. One of the many reasons I got the truck. Our usual site is just off of Hwy 260 onto #300 old rim road about 8 miles in and making a right at Lat. 34 20'29.10"N/ Longitude 110 58'19.91"W. There seems to be a few of us in AZ, would be nice to get together sometime to BBQ, shoot the ****, help with repairs.........lol
just to let you know. had a no start that left me stranded for the day. p2291 - injector control pressure to low - possibly got too hot and burned out an o-ring.
Hey Buddy, Thanks for the update. I was planning on trying this this week because my wife n kids are at the mother n laws. Exactly what did you do? how many times did you do it? etc Thanks again.
i hope it works for you too. our scenarios are a little different but i will tell you how i did it. so, to start off with a back history, i saved the old cooler i just changed out and was using it to get the right hose size to jab in the new one. that is when i saw how bad it was plugged up. there was about an 1" or 1.5" of packed sand/rust on the inlet side of the cooler. so replacing the cooler may have been necessary as i dont know the back-flush would have cleaned out all of the junk. keep in mind my truck has 200k on it and has ran hot ever since i bought it at 187k. my guess is whoever owned the truck before me was having problems as well due to the egr delete and it looks like the radiator is new. i dont know if it was an instant day/night plug up or gradual temp increase.
anyway, to start the process i ordered two fumotos (108n) and a back-flush tool from amazon. i ordered restore and restore plus from rock mtn cummins in avondale. 3'-4' 3/4" tubing for the oil cooler and 6' 3/8" tubing for the fumotos from home depot. i also changed my starter while i was doing it and had a heater core on hand in case i had enough time, im sure it is full of junk too. (next time).
step 1. take off starter. 3 bolts (13mm), the top one is the hardest (13mm deep wall and long extension). take off the power cable first (10mm and a 15mm).
step 2. drain coolant. i tried saving all of it to see what came out but gave that up after my first soaking. pull block drains and lower radiator hose. i left the thermostat in so it would get warmer faster and unless you are going to change it out, i would leave it in.
step 3. took the oil cooler access cover/plate off under the turbo. home depot has the perfect tool for the job. 1/4"-5/16" husky ratcheting wrench. bought one after i lost the torx bit 4 times before i even was got it in the bolt. biggest advise..... BUY THIS TOOL OR ONE LIKE IT!!!
step 4. used r.v. water filter at hose bib then connected hose with back flush tool and 3/4" tubing jabbed in oil cooler as far as you can. (1"-2"). turn on water and let it run for 30 minutes pulsating intermittently. i believe this process was the most effective even without the restore. i wanted to see what the actual flow was through the cooler so i put in the fumotos, replaced the starter, closed up the radiator but left off the oil cooler plate. then i put the hose in the degas bottle and let it run so there would be gravity flow through the cooler. it was flowing good (and the degas bottle was overflowing) so i started the engine to see if that changed anything. the flow increased to what i felt was a sufficient amount but didnt blast out. i couldnt find any info about what it should do but was as much as turning you hose on like you were going to take a drink out of it. after that i put the plate/cover back on.
step 5. added restore (not as strong of a chemical as i thought, more like runny unscented hand soap) and filled with water and ran for 2 hours at normal driving temps. drove to get warmed up and when there wasnt any leaks or problems, took the family for a cruise and got lunch. started monitoring and temps were immediately where they should be. WIN!!!
step 6. let cool down for a bit then drained. took off oil cooler plate and back flushed for another 30 min, pulsating. if you use the hoses connected to the fumotos, dont tie them to the axle like the link shows. the suspension moves and pulls the hoses off. tie them to the cross member or somewhere else. i also opened and closed various drain ports to increase flow out of the different drains. cleaner definitely worked. got junk out of the fumotos, and gel out of the lower radiator hose. did similar flushing as step 4. filled up the system with water like the restore directions show, brought back to operating temp for 5 min and drained again. this time i did not do the oil cooler plate but flushed until bubbles quit coming out. and opened all drain plugs to empty system. i didnt do this (time constraints), if you wanted to do distilled water to flush out all tap water this would be when i would do it.
step 7. filled with cat elc, brought up to temp, checked for leaks.
step 8. drank beer.
i hope this helps
Awesome! Gunna give it ago, even if it doesnt work ill know I gave it my best shot. Thank you for taking the time to write that up, I appreciate it! Next time I head up there, uve got a beer with your name on it
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