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Boost problem/severe barking - Please Help !!!

5K views 20 replies 7 participants last post by  coolhand_lukas 
#1 ·
Ok so I have a 2004 (Late 2003 build) Excursion 6.0 with 150k miles. At 125k miles I replaced turbo, deleted EGR, replaced oil cooler, installed coolant filter and EC-1 coolant, new ICP (leaking oil), and got an edge CTS. A couple times over last 6 months I pulled out of driveway and truck died but started back up after a little cranking and ran fine. Recently did it again and wouldn't restart. Pushed it back in garage and it sat for about a month because I had no time to work on it. Finally checked it out and saw oil pressure only building to 200-300 psi while cranking. Pulled IPR and found no screen and a little debris inside. Screen stayed in the engine so I had to thread a long screw into screen and pull it out. It also looked like it had a tear in it. Replaced IPR and built pressure instantly and started right up. Thought everything was cool but when I got on accelerator the turbo started barking severely and consistently like it is chugging and continues when I let off the pedal until it slows back to idle. I then noticed I only had 2-5 psi of boost pressure. So I pulled turbo and sure enough the unison ring was seized up probably from sitting. So I cleaned it and put it back together but problem is still there. EBP shows 2-3 psi with sensor plugged in and disconnected so I'm assuming I have had the update that disables the input from that sensor and the tube is free flowing. So then I swapped out the VGT solenoid with the one from my old turbo and no change. Also when I unplug the VGT harness I get a change in sound so I know that it is doing something. Now whether or not it's fully functioning I don't know. CTS shows VGT duty cycle around 60-70 percent when idling. Is there any chance I could have put it back together wrong? I did pull the plug out of the bore of the VGT tube after reassembly and made sure I could move the veins in and out. What doesn't make sense to me is that I think the barking is from excessive pressure blowoff but now my CTS only shows 0-1 PSI even when getting on the pedal. I have researched this to death and am really frustrated. Anybody have any suggestions?

Thank you.
 
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#2 ·
Ok so maybe it's not turbo barking. I just took it out and ran the dog S**T out of it. It's acting a little different now. I took a video to give more insight and hopefully somebody can help me diagnose this. I am getting a little more boost than I though but doesn't look quite high enough. The frequency of the noise is a little faster now and not quite as loud. I also know my FICM voltage is too low but I think it has been that way for a while now. I just had it repaired a couple years ago and now its back down again.

So that's a picture and it won't let me attach a video. Can anybody help ?????
 

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#4 ·
Lol. Yeah unfortunately.... Howd you come across that? Only this time it flat died on me which I fixed with the IPR. I tried dragging the vid file into the upload box but it disappears. But I can drag a pic in and upload it??? I'm so frustrated I'm thinking about dropping it off at the dealer which is a last resort for me.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Ok I created a youtube account and uploaded it. Hope this works. Sorry about being sideways. I didn't realize you can't use a videocamera sideways like a camera. Please watch and give me your thoughts on my problem:

Link removed. New link below.
 
#6 · (Edited)
That link just sent me to "my videos"
 
#8 ·
Okay, a couple things I would try is unplug the VGT pigtail (it will have low power without the turbo), check hose to MAP sensor.

How low is your FICM voltage?
 
#9 ·
I did unplug the vgt pigtail and I get a change in exhaust tone while idling so I know the vanes are moving but did not try driving it while unplugged. I checked the map hose at the valve cover nipple and it looked good but didn't trace it all the way back to the sensor but I will. And my ficm voltage drops to as low as mid 30s.
 
#11 ·
I have a tuner but it's been in stock mode since my trouble started. I can try changing the tune. I don't think it's ebp sensor because: my gauge shows from 1 to 3 or 4 of what I guess is psi when it's plugged in and when it's unplugged ( I researched and found out that Ford had major issues with these in 03 and had a recall out to update the pcm and eliminate the sensor from the system and to calculate a fictitous value based on other sensors and since I get a reading with mine unplugged I'm assuming it's been updated. However I could call the dealer and verify that) but I did take it off and verify the hard tube was clear (had air blowing out while running) and reinstalled sensor. I could also replace map sensor if you think I should.
 
#12 ·
I would worry about the MAP sensor yet unless you have a code for it. I know low FICM voltage can cause driveability problems but have never experienced it so I can't tell you what it feels like, anybody here know what a 30V FICM does?
 
#13 ·
idk but mid 30's voltage is a definite no no lol
 
#14 ·
So I contacted the guy who fixed my FICM 2 years ago and he says to ship it to him with return postage and he'll fix it again under warranty so it's going back. Has anybody watched my video and have any more ideas? Thanks.
 
#15 ·
So I sent my FICM back to the guy who I swapped it with a couple of years ago and he says he fixed it for me even though he acted like he doesn't really work on these much anymore. I'm pretty sure back then he was located in Texas and he goes by dallasman999 and fortworthman999. Now he is in Kentucky. So I got it back and had the same low voltages. So I gave up on him and swapped out my 7 pin for a 4 pin FICM from FICM Fixer in Texas. Put it in and now have 48-49V constant. But the truck still has the same problem. But I've driven it more and after the engine temp comes up and I've driven for 5-10 mins it starts to smooth out and almost runs normal. On the next cold start its back to chugging and surging. I'm beginning to think it is a bad injector(s) or injector stiction.

Any thoughts PLEASE. I am at wits end with this problem.

Thank you!
 
#16 ·
Here's my video again. And again, after I drive it for a while it slowly reduces until it runs normal. And ignore the low FICM voltage because it's now 48-49V.

 
#17 ·
#18 ·
That does not sound like a turbo issue to me. It sounds like a fueling issue. Like injectors missing/firing weird. When the power kicks in hard a few times that is when they actually start working/then die/then work again.




Does it idle good?

Do you have any codes? You might have codes with no CEL

17% IPR duty cycle at idle looks low to me. I usually see around 24-30%

When the "power kicks in" you don't see much change in boost, 1-3psi change wont make the truck jerk like that. But you can see ICP changing drastically. Going from 2200psi to 3600psi and then back down to 2400psi

I am going to guess you are still having IPR issues. It could have debris sticking in it.
 
#19 ·
That does not sound like a turbo issue to me. It sounds like a fueling issue. Like injectors missing/firing weird. When the power kicks in hard a few times that is when they actually start working/then die/then work again.




Does it idle good?

Do you have any codes? You might have codes with no CEL

17% IPR duty cycle at idle looks low to me. I usually see around 24-30%

When the "power kicks in" you don't see much change in boost, 1-3psi change wont make the truck jerk like that. But you can see ICP changing drastically. Going from 2200psi to 3600psi and then back down to 2400psi
I am going to guess you are still having IPR issues. It could have debris sticking in it.
Yes it seems to idle fine and responds normally to light accelerator pressure. When this first started happening which is right after replacing a bad ipr valve, it would rev up fine in the driveway but it would make the burping sound repetitively as the engine was slowing down. After driving it a little, it will now rev up and slow down normally, but while driving and accelerating it makes the noise repetitively and the frequency varies with the rpms.

I have no codes showing up on my edge CTS. I'm thinking I need to see my cylinder contribution but don't have anything to monitor that. I didn't notice the icp changing like you did. Could a bad/sticking injector cause those readings to jump like that?

The only other thing I would mention is that when I pulled the IPR valve out the screen stayed in the bore. I had to stick a long screw in the hole and twist it through the screen to pull it out. If a piece of debris made it through could it cause a probem somewhere?

Thanks for the help.
 
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#20 ·
Just an update. I ordered some REV-X online and will reply back and will post the results. I'm thinking that I'm down to a stiction issue or bad injector(s).
 
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