04 with egr delete cranks fine hot or cold will idle good sometimes will rev. one day the truck started to miss after a hot start and stumbled and surged all the way home.vgt was hitting both 15 and 85. changed unison ring (mine was walered out really bad at the pin hole) vgt is fine now
checked ipr screen and was good. ipr, icv,and icp all checks out fine. fuel pressure is steady 55 all the way to full throttle(new fuel pump and filters) ebp about 17 at idle and moves to about 20 when hitting the throttle in the driveway map didn't move as much as i thought it should so i got a new map sensor. the truck has updated stand pipes and dummy plugs. the problem is intermittent bucking surging missing and sometime no throttle response at all, it will crank every time. ficm stays perty steady between 48 and 47.5 all the time. scan gauge never shows a code so i took it to Oraley's and got 14 codes 0113 0275 0282 0336 0341 0403 0405 0487 0603 0677 p1000 1102 2614 2617. so i removed ficm checked wire harness best i could and got continuity on all 4 pins on #8 and#5. i discovered the ground lug at the last intake bolt was a little loose but not off so i tighted it and put everything back together. truck started fine let idle for about five minutes(before truck would start missing by that time) reved up to about 1200 rpms and held for a minute no surge or miss, let off did it again everything is fine so i hit the throttle perty hard up to about 3200 rpms when it came back down, missing again, i didn't test drive it because i didn't have any distilled water to top off the degass bottle. i think wire issue but don't know where to look .if anybody has any idea what to look for i would appreciate any help. very frustrated with truck right now, thanks.
hi everybody
I've owned my 04 for about 10 years now and have gone through 2 oil cooler, 2 injector wire harnesses, 1 injector 2 degas bottles and 1 set of head gaskets. i have deleted egr, added arp studs and a fuel filter cap with a shreader valve. i don't know how many batteries i'v gone through
and i'm having problems again. if you would like to check out what is going on, i'm in the 6.0 problem section thank you.
thanks, i do all my work myself, if i took it to the dealer every time i had a problem i wouldn't still own it today. over all with the problems that i have had it's good truck and i want to keep it running but parts are unreasonably high for these trucks. i just bought a new unison ring off the internet because ford and the auto parts stores only want to sell new turbos.
it cost almost $80 then i broke the v band clamp which is about $80 but i found some for$18 (same clamp still in sealed ford parts bag) so i bought 2 encases i messed up again so now i have a spear i hope i never use
never smokes when broken and never any codes on scangauge
my truck never smokes and never shows any codes on the scangauge. it has factory exhaust with the converter(at least that is what that short football shaped piece is). it seems everybody has some smoke involved with their problems but i never see smoke. for the last 3 years the air filter light has been on in the dash because i broke it and just plugged the hole it was in. this last week when problems started i unplugged alot of things and had the batteries unplugged a lot to try and find problems and now that light is off. i had the truck scaned at Oraly's and a bunch of codes came up but i didn't clear them some where egr which i deleted about 5 years ago some where ckp and cmp maybe from when i did head gaskets and studs 5 years ago. the truck has never been scanned since i've owned it. i just got a scangauge about 2 years ago. does any body else get codes from scangauge
disconnect the batteries for five miutes. run it again until it does its thing. take it back immediately after the symptom is confirmed and see what codes come up
bare with me folks i'm trying to lean how to use the forum. doing a search i see lots of people with simaler symptoms. but it seems every case is unique. some was ficm while others was injectors. I've had injector problems before and wire chaff problems. it seems that i have 2 problems at the same time now., which really makes you chase your tail. i would like some advise on what i should tackle first, bad injector or wire. did bad wire cause bad injector or is ficm shiating it's pants . these are the ones that make you want to smash stuff, i've been perty patient but it really is eating away at me,this is my daily driver to work for three days i drove on the grass and have to wonder the other motorist are thinking fix the goddam truck or get f off the road.
Even still, without live pids, it's a guessing game. Wire chafe can be a bear but it's also fairly simple to find. May be a little time consuming if you bench test each pin on a harness, but you doing it saves a lot of money compared to dealer pricing. Me? I'll pull apart an injector harness and repin it to save $200. But I've done it so many times it's not a big deal.
funny thing is i have a injector wiring harness that i basically blueprinted but (there is always a but) i cant find now.i've did continuity test on 5 and 8 but every thing checks out, i did it in several different positions to try and get a no beep mostly on 5 because it is the most accessible and never got a nonbeep. ficm always seem normal, and why would it run smooth sometime if an injector is bad?
Dirty clogged nozzle, stiction... After reading through your codes, I'd say disconnect both batteries, leave it over night, let the KAM reset. Then hook them up and run it, if it acts up, park and check your codes. Some of the codes could possibly be due to excessive or extended cranking. I have a feeling it's a harness issue.
Also, check your injector connectors. Are they seated correctly in the head? Is the harness fully seated on the injector? When I bought my truck, it had an intermittent miss on #1, checked the connecter and it was barely in the head. The joker that did the studs never worked on a 6.0L, multiple connectors were ruined, I swapped injectors anyhow. This was just the tip of the iceberg... ended up having terrible chafing issues and replaced multiple harnesses.
i'll try that again but i had the batteries unhooked for 2 days before i went to orally's so all the codes should be fresh? the guy didn't say , "hay you want me to clear the codes" so i didn''t say yes. if i get the p0275 again should i just replace that injector just because it is a problem. that is alot of money. i have found most people don't know what they are talking about when it comes to the 6.0
I would clear them and disconnect your batteries. In the meantime check your connections on the injectors. If they're good, look for chafing in the harness, if that's good I'd look at injectors. It's a hard code, it will come back. Have you swapped injectors yet? You say it's 5 & 8, swap them with 6 & 7. If the code changes, you've found your issue. I would do them 1 at a time but doing both won't hurt anything. All you'd need is a couple of the copper compression washers from a seal kit. I
Welcome to the site and welcome to the club! Sounds like you've had similar experiences to most of us here. I'm sure that you'll find plenty of folks here who can help you out. :thumb:
update, i changed out the injector harness today with one that had bad #2 wires that i repaired. i still have the same problems so now it looks like ficm or injectors. the engine wiring harness seems good because all the sensors are reading on the scan gauge. after changing the harness i went back to Orialy's and used the same code reader again and there was no codes.
what are the symptoms of an spool valve failur compared to leaking seal injector
the bubble test can pinpoint a bad seal perty quick and i know how my truck acts with that kind of failure. i just realized i haven't had an electrical failure of an injector except for wiring problems. what happens with drivebility with a spool valve problem. it seems it would be the same as wiring, injector not working at all. could the injector valve make some movement and be bad or possible move slow or partially move
update, today i went to a diesel shop close to my home the mechanic wasn't there but his helper was and he hooked my truck up to a snapon diagnostic tool. he did a cylinder contrabution test and number 5 was reading -9 and the cylinders next to it was reading low in the 3- 4 range, i don't know what the range is on the machine . i left went home and changed number5 injector with a brand new ford injector.cranked the truck and missing again. i took the truck back to the shop and did the test again. i forgot to mention during the test the test would stop repeatedly and have to hit the start button again and look at the screen really fast to get the info before it would stop the test again. on the second test the machine was doing the same thing but this time number5 was reading -19. so i gave the guy a tip for his troubles because he was just helping me out, i wasn't being charged and he wasn't an experienced mechanic. the truck seemed to run better on the street so i took it for about a 20 mile ride in suberba with some long 60 mph roads and some red light to red light driving. it started to run just as bad as before then at one point it died and would not star back for about 20 minutes. when it did start it ran ok but still had a miss, i was only about 2 miles from home then.
With 14 codes in the system, this truck is going to have multiple problems. Your posts are hard to follow with no punctuation and grammar that runs together. But here is the break down....
Just based on those codes there is a short somewhere. I would be looking at the cam sensor pigtail. You should also clear those codes and see what comes back as a hard fault. That might be easier. From what you describe tho, there is a short (stalling issue possibly) and injector issues (sounds like 5 and 8)
ok i just went out side and plugged the icp back in, i unpluged it to see if it would help get me home. i cranked the truck and it purred like a kitten for 20 minutes with not one hiccup, so i got in it and reved it several times between 2000 and 3500 rpms, not one stumble or mis.
this is the first time it has done this since the problems started. i didn't test drive it because i had a couple of crown in cokes now. tomorrow will be the test if it gets me to work or not, or was that just a fluke. did all the air get out of the oil rail? i don't know. the check ingine light came on when it stalled a couple of hours ago and i got my first code on the scan gauge ever 2285 whoo hoo. now off to see what 2285 is, thanks
aww it was icp. i've had that unplugged many times and that is the first tine the scangauge picked it up.
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