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Old 10-08-2009, 04:39 PM
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EGR question

My CEL came on a while back and it shot the code 0401 insuff. flow. So I cleaned the egr valve and put new gaskets on it. The light came on again shortly later so someone told me about the IAT sensor. I found it, cleaned it because it was horrible. I reshot for a code and no code. The emmisons light was in the green on the obd II. So I thought the problem was fixed. I checked for codes periodically and nothing. As I was driving down the high way the dang light came on again, same code. I took out the valve, and the sensor and both are clean. No build up on it. Is there a way to clean out the thing the valve and the sensor plug in to? I'm guessing thats the EGR cooler? Now my next question.. Is there any other valves or sensors involved with this EGR system? Before ya'll tell me to do the egr delete I just want to through this out there, I don't have much money right and I'm just trying to get this fixed before I deploy to afghan. with in this month. My wife will be using my truck to tow her 4runner back to NC from cali. Will this EGR be a problem for her if it doesn't get fixed right away? Thanks for your help.
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Old 10-08-2009, 05:52 PM
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anyone have any input?
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Old 10-08-2009, 07:39 PM
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Money isn't an issue with the EGR delete. You can do it yourself for about $10. Search the threads about it on here. You'll remove your intake and EGR cooler. Cut a piece of 1/8" metal that is the same pattern of the EGR cooler where it bolts on to the intake. You'll have to drill 2 holes in it so that you can place it in between the EGR cooler and intake manifold, then bolt the EGR cooler back on just like it was. Now for the other end...plug the exhaust pipe with a freeze plug and weld it in. Now put that exhaust pipe back on the EGR cooler with the band clamp that was on it before. Reassemble everything the way it was, and you are done. On a side note, while your intake is off and before you bolt the EGR cooler and sheet metal block plate back on, take your intake manifold to a machine shop and have them clean the insides out. I think it costs about $35 for them to soak it overnight. It'll be full of carbon and soot from where your exhaust has been recirculating back through to get burned again. Once you block the EGR cooler, the carbon build up won't happen again because only fresh air from the turbo will be allowed inside. This is probably the quickest, simplest way to do it since you're in a pinch with time and what not. Later down the road you can go back in and totally remove the EGR cooler and re-route the coolant lines, etc. For now, this will delete it and is what alot of guys on here do as a permanent delete. Good luck to you. Like I said, type in "EGR delete" in the search box up at the top and you'll find tons of threads with pictures and detailed instructions on how to do it.
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Old 10-08-2009, 07:49 PM
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Thanks for for your help man. I'll def. Take a look at it. Is this something i need fixed before my wife drives across country towin a 4runner or what?
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Old 10-08-2009, 09:24 PM
LDH LDH is offline
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If it was me, I would do this before she does. The 6.0 is notorious for blowing head gaskets and running high EGT's (exhaust gas temperatures). The 6.0 only has 4 bolts per cylinder securing the head to the block. The bolts are called "torque-to-yield" bolts, meaning they stretch when you torque (tighten) them down. This stretching is supposed to hold the head down in place so that your head gaskets remain intact. When the head gaskets blow, coolant mixes with your oil and combustion pressures go into your coolant system. This causes the puking of coolant out of the degas bottle cap (coolant resevoir). The engine overheats, and if you keep pushing it, catastrophic engine failure WILL result. With a stock truck and responsible driving, the torque to yield head bolts are just fine. Under heavy duty towing applications though, they won't hold up. That's why alot of guys install ARP studs to replace the bolts. They don't stretch, and they are torqued to 245 ft lbs instead of the 85 ft lbs of the stock bolts.

That being said, the effects of your EGR system are high EGT's, higher coolant temps, etc. The EGR cooler is a pipe that exhaust gas flows through on it's way to the intake manifold. The EGR cooler has internal plumbing that allows engine coolant to pass through, designed to cool these exhaust gasses down before they go back into the engine to get reburned. Due to the poor design though, it usually works the opposite. The exhaust ends up heating the coolant, instead of the coolant cooling the exhaust. Flash boils can occur under towing applications, because those exhaust gas temps are going to be alot higher. This goes back to the head gasket situation. Another thing that can occur, is that the internal plumbing inside the EGR cooler breaks under high temp and stress, which results in coolant leaking out of their passages into the actual exhaust gas pipe, which in turn goes into your intake and then into the engine itself. This is where you see coolant coming out of the tailpipe, if you're lucky enough to see it and it's not burned up. Lucky as in, you'll see it and know that it's time to shut it down.

As with anything, you can roll the dice and chance it, but if it was me, I wouldn't tow a 4 runner from one coast to the other if you're already throwing codes and having EGR issues. You will be dancing with the devil and just asking for trouble. Get that EGR cooler deleted and get some gauges installed. You at least need to have an exhaust gas temperature gauge intalled so that she can monitor the temps when driving and shut the truck down when/if they reach a sustained (steady) high reading. If not, you're playing Russian Roulette and there's a 50/50 chance she won't make it to NC.
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Old 10-08-2009, 09:34 PM
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Thanks for all of your help man. I'll have to look around and see if anyone can help me out with the welding and i'll give this delete deal a shot.
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Old 10-08-2009, 09:34 PM
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One more thing I might add is, when/if your EGR valve fails to function correctly and gets stuck in the closed position, what ends up happening is your very hot exhaust gas dead heads into the EGR cooler where it stays, making your engine coolant that much hotter. It's like setting a glass of water next to the fireplace. That's why you plug both ends of the cooler when doing the delete.
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Old 10-08-2009, 09:38 PM
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rock on man.. thanks again
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Old 10-08-2009, 09:43 PM
LDH LDH is offline
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Remember, when you do the delete you will have to drain the coolant out of the system. A very important thing to remember is when filling the system back up, MAKE SURE YOU USE THE GOLD FORD MOTORCRAFT ENGINE COOLANT. 3 gallons of it, and 3 gallons of water. DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT use the standard coolant you buy at Autozone. A chemical reaction will occur causing your radiator to clog up and not function properly, ending in possible water pump damage and engine overheating. You WILL damage your engine if you do not use the Ford Gold coolant.
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Old 10-08-2009, 09:47 PM
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before I plunge into this... Is this something that a more expierenced mech needs to do or can just your average guy with some mechanical knowledge can handle?
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