Alot of blue smoke Attn: M-Chan

[LDH]

When I start my start my truck in the morning, it blows blue smoke for about 15 to 20 minutes. With the high idle switch on it really fogs the driveway out bad. Then, when I back out and drive down the road it continues to blow blue for about the first 5 to 10 miles. It seems like the more throttle I give it and faster I go, the quicker it goes away. Once I've ran it 65mph for a good 5 miles or so, the smoke disappears. What could this be? My EGR valve was replaced in December last year, and I have cleaned it since then. As you know, I've replaced the O rings and STC fitting in my HPO system. The temps around here have been in the 50's till about noon. Thanks.

[choctaw]

I'm all in........

[deanof-350]

ever do a head gasket yet? if not I suggest head studs and while its apart get your heads ringned in case you want more to upgrade turbo later

[shu873]

Sounds like you've got a lazy injector or 3...

They act up when cold then function normally when its all warmed up. Sticky spool valve maybe. Hard to say over the internet but that's my bet.

[m-chan68]

When it smokes, does it misfire?

[LDH]

Yes. Not real, real bad, but you can tell it's not running 100%. Once it's warmed up and the smoke goes away, the sputtering and missing doesn't. It misses pretty bad when you're under 2000 RPM. Get going down the highway, set the cruise at 65 or 70, and when the engine idles down and relaxes at 1700 or so it misses so bad that you've got to push the cup holder in or else your coins will vibrate out onto the floor and your coffee sloshes out. When you get on the throttle and it downshifts and raps up above 2000, the missing isn't really there anymore.

[m-chan68]

I would start with taking it into the dealer and having it reflashed to the latest calibration level and see where that gets you.

[LDH]

I had that done last Thursday at the Ford dealership. It still does it.

[m-chan68]

Originally Posted by shu873

Sounds like you've got a lazy injector or 3...

They act up when cold then function normally when its all warmed up. Sticky spool valve maybe. Hard to say over the internet but that's my bet.

I agree. The only way to pinpoint the faulty injector(s) is to install IDS (or some other scan tool that will read power balance) with the engine ready to crank over while it's cold. Once the engine is started with the symptom present, observe the "low" cylinder(s), and that should indicate the faulty injector(s). I also highly recommend running Ford/Motorcraft 10W30 CJ-4 engine oil (or 5W40 Mobil 1 Synthetic if you don't mind spending the extra money), if you aren't already. I find these 6.0L engines seem to run better overall on that weight of oil. Observing your three FICM voltages on a scan tool while the symptom occurs would certainly help too.

[LDH]

Ok. I'll get the lower weight oil in it ASAP and have the tech scan it for me. I'll keep you guys posted.