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03 6.0 stalling after warmup

4K views 48 replies 5 participants last post by  kaya 
#1 ·
2003 6leaker is giving me a hpo leak that's forcing me to pull my hair out.
I brought it in for a low power issue. Keep in mind it wouldn't stall, just wouldn't pull itself.
First thing that was suspected was the injectors, only got 2 to buzz, went ahead and changed them due to the customer asking for all 8 to be replaced. After that it started stalling?? I got a contribution code for cyl.5, put a known good injector in to replace it and, fixed with a lot more power. But it started stalling after first test drive. Let it cool, started it brought it back, did an air test. The customer wanted a new oil cooler installed so I went ahead and jumped into the Hpop cover. Replaced stand pipes, rail supply lines, IPR,icp, and Hpop along with the new cooler after seeing the screen Windows had been sucked through the Hpop. I now it sounds extensive but wasn't wanting to have to come back again.
Air test after replacing lines, all good.
Start it up when I finally get it together, nope, still stalling. Air test it hot, and I hear something IPR closed behind head on passenger side, at least I believe it to be loudest there, I can hear it on both sides somewhat towards the rear. When I had the cover off the wasn't no leaks at the discharge tube?? Can the branch tube crack or has then been seen before??
 
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#2 ·
I should add, no restart hot! 380lbs. Just can't figure out what else can be leaking. New stand pipes, injectors, rail feed lines. Discharge tube orings look fine and was tested with my rubber air gun nipple. Nothing?? The orings was bad on the stand pipes, and thinning on the rail feeds. Just don't know where else to look other than pull tranny a take a peek at branch tube
 
#3 ·
What did the pigtail for the ICP look like? Have you pulled the IPR since you put it all back together, if so, what did the screen look like?

What parts did you use, OEM?
 
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#5 ·
the lines replaced was I purchased from international. The injectors where reman from a reputable business called young and sons here in Indiana. The icp and IPR was an Oreilly brand most likely BWD. The IPR screen is clean although it did looked sunk in. The pigtails was rough looking on the IPR so I shrink wrapped them. The ICP had a new pigtail. The ICP gives me .24v koeo. And I've verified Pressure with gauge.
After it dies I put my IPR controller on and close off the IPR and still no start hot, (380lbs). But when it dies, it don't just choke down, it's like you shut the key off.
 
#4 ·
Diesel Tech Ron had a truck fresh out of an oil cooler replacement by someone else that took 7 IPR screen changes before it would run reliably.

Good suggestion on ICP wiring, as well. I suggest a look at IPR wiring, also. Harnesses don't like to be molested.
 
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#7 ·
Hmmmm... you got the ICP and IPR from O'Reilly, good chance they were crap right out of the box.

You mentioned in your first post that you brought the truck in for lack of power and then mention that it's a customer's truck, are you a shop working on someone else's truck?
 
#8 ·
Yes, they have a budget. They took it to Ford, spent 9k and still having issues. I worked on all there vehicles and they insisted I take a shot at it. The icp I actually had from a past 6.0 that was still new. The IPR the truck had in it I pulled out and put my camera in the hole to find a second screen shoved up in the hole, but the screen on the IPR was just dented. Bought another IPR after second guessing myself. Made no difference, icp or IPR. It looked like ford changed out, Hpop, discharge tube, icp, IPR, Egr delete, 2 inj., ficm. They still had a power issue but it didn't die!! With what I've done it has a lot more power, but is stalling when it gets hot.
The only thing I know for sure is, I'm not getting my 500lbs at restart hot.
 
#10 ·
Branch tubes can crack. You asked earlier and I wasn't sure if it was ever answered.

Have you tried a start with the ICP sensor unplugged? It may be good to verify that ICPv stays low but ICP psi gets falsified appropriately.

...and I get that you think that there's a leak. Just trying to help to completely rule out anything else. Branch tubes are... a hassle.
 
#11 ·
Yes, it runs the same with icp unplugged. Gonna try a smoke machine tomorrow and/or Hyd.pump.?? Yes I'm thinking its a leak, but I'm not above any other possibility. When I got a #5 contribution code and swapped that injector back out, I know how new parts fail. Got a #6 contribution code now so?? Very well may be an injector but I've sent the old ones back for cores now!:rage: The other injector showed itself air testing hot tho, blew air out of both weep holes when I stuck the air gun with the rubber nipple in it with rail off, oil shot over my shoulder, replaced it, that's when the majority of my throttle came back to life!!
 
#12 ·
a leak big enough to cause an all out stall while driving is not going to allow the truck to start cold or otherwise. leaks don't typically cause stalls. they cause hard starts and no starts.
when you crank the engine and are not building adequate icp, does the oil gauge rise on the dash?
 
#13 ·
Yes it does. I'm trying to start over from the beginning.
The first thing I did was change injectors, thenonce back together I ran it, still had no throttle pedal, so same issue as before. It revved up in park but wouldn't pull itself in gear. I let it run while I had it on the scanner then it stalled when it got to temp. I started chasing oil leaks once I realized I didn't have 500lbs of oil pressure thinking that im dealing with a no start hot and assuming an oil leak was causing it all. My thinking was that maybe it wasn't stalking before was because the old injectors was firing at less pressure due to worn spool valves or stuck open inj.? Not sure. What I do know is, it wasn't stalling until I changed inj.
 
#15 ·
if the oil gauge comes up while cranking and you're unable to build adequate icp to start, you're likely dealing with a bad hpop. the dead throttle symptom is highly suspect of this as well. if you monitor icp and ipr duty cycle while matting it, and your ipr is maxing at 85 yet you're not building up to 1000psi icp, the pump has likely failed. these pumps can also start to get intermittent on their way out.
any icp codes?
 
#16 ·
I hold it to the floor and get desired icp pressure, just goes to 3k rpm is all. I'm gonna do some more diagnosing tonite along with a smoke test. I can't remember what the icp pressure is doing while in gear with open throttle. I remember IPR % was at 44 when I tested last in gear open throttle.
Like I've said tho, my power doubled when I replaced my #5 injector with the contribution code?? After replacing that one,my power doubled but then received a another contribution code for cyl. 6. Afraid to pull injector with having another copper washer on hand and I hate to purchase yet another injector just to experiment. But the results was positive last time.
 
#18 ·
Removed both stand pipes to investigate any mistakes. Leak is definitely under the Hpop cover or on branch tube. Didn't smoke test, after looking at engine and hearing the large amount of air leaking with IPR closed, decided that the next step is to dicect the upper engine once again. Gonna get under the cover again and double check myself. Although I know that the stall started after injector replacement, I still feel that the hpo system should still withstand the shop air with IPR closed testing at the rail. So I'm going in tomorrow! Again!! :tired_face:
 
#19 ·
O, I build up past 1400 lbs watching icp Reving it up in park. It stays with desired pressure at all times till it stalls. Never goes over 60% while running/Reving. Runs almost flawlessly in park. Just doesn't rev pass 3k. When it stalls IPR reads at 85 and icp only builds 380??
 
#22 ·
it sounds like one of the parts you replaced may have caused the stalling. since you say it wasn't happening before...maybe.
are you throwing any dtc's? and when you are unable to build icp on the restart, do you have sync? ipr is commanded to 85?
 
#23 ·
Yes have sync. If you wait about 20-30 minutes it will start and run a couple of minutes. From starting cold it will run for about 20 minutes. It's like, either the oil thinning or IPR is getting to hot? i thought of putting heat shield back just to try. Seems like the stalling issue is definitely heat related. Once it cools it restarts like clock work.
 
#27 ·
Original does the same thing. Taking turbo and intake back off this evening, gonna get closer to this leak.
All I can say guys, is when I air test these rails, I just think it should hold shop air pretty easily. Get the same leak from either rail IPR shut. Gonna get back in the pump lid and double check my stuff in there
 
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