Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum banner

PLEASE HELP!!! LATE BUILD 2004 6.0 KEEPS DYING

10K views 46 replies 13 participants last post by  William2 
#1 ·
Ok first off I was on here before trying to figure this out and now I cannot find the thread.

I need ideas!

Truck will start and drive for about 10 minutes, then it will die every time I hit the throttle.

Done so far: New ICP (Ford) and Pigtail
New Cam sensor (Ford) and pigtail
New Fuel filters
Checked voltage on FICM (48+) it is only 6 months old as well

Here is what I have: 58 volt sinister diesel FICM
Bullet Proof Diesel oil cooler relocation kit (Ford installed)
SCT ITSX tuner (returned to stock)
Gryphon FICM programmer (Returned to stock)
EGR delete
blue spring
Coolant filter
Fass 150 separator/filter

Attached is the last run I did with the new cam sensor and pigtail. I don't know what else to do. Everything looks fine except the xam crank sync but it idles fine and smooth. Tonight I drave for ten minutes before it started dying on me. It would always fire back up. or when I let off the throttle sometimes it would just re-fire, but I had to idle home because it would only stay running that way. Don't really have a hard start or long start but it will fire and die right away sometimes.

I open to suggestions!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

Attachments

See less See more
#3 ·
^^^beat me too it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Heavy_GD
#4 ·
My apologies on the duplicate thread, I am new to forums and the required etiquette I will delete this thread if one of you two will tell me how. But before I do, can you tell me why you think I have a HPO leak? I am just not seeing the signs, and don't want to tear it down if there is no reason.

Thanks, and again sorry
 
#5 ·
Because your IPR duty cycle is way too high for a warm idle. IPR duty cycle is a commanded value not actual, so if the PCM is commanding it to close more, bleeding off less high pressure oil, then it's being being starved of HPO basically. The IPR is like a dump valve. The more it closes, the less amount of oil gets bled off so it creates more pressure. If the PCM is telling your IPR to close more to achieve the same ICP value then there is a leak somewhere, meaning it's bleeding off somewhere else. Is the 33% IPR is at a cold idle? Meaning EOT less than 190? If so, get it up to operating temp and see what your ICP/IPR values are. ICP should be 580-600 and IPR should be 21-24%. If your IPR % is higher than that to achieve the same 580-600 ICP then you have a leak
 
#9 ·
Ok pressure tested the fuel system and at idle I have 70psi and WOT I have 67-68psi
IPR hot idle 22.5
ICP V. hot idle .86
ICP hot idle 580-600

All readings follow the graphs I have found all the way up.

Only thing I am unsure of is whether the crank can sync should stay steady on 1. Mine blinks 1/0 continuously. Rpms do not fluctuate so I only changed the cam sensor, but I'm picking up the crank sensor tomorrow. Oh FICM sync stays in sync the whole time.

Am I chasing a wiring demon?
 

Attachments

#10 ·
...

Am I chasing a wiring demon?
Could be. If your crank or cam sensors were shorting to your EGR wires in the harness, I suppose that it might throw a bunch of EGR codes.

If you want to check... Disconnect your PCM connector that carries the EGR and CKP/CMP signals. Then disconnect the CKP and CMP connectors at the sensors. Then use an ohmmeter to see if the CKP and CMP lines have low resistance to any other pin on the PCM connector - maybe starting with the EGR wires. The CKP and CMP sensor wires should not be low resistance to anything else on the PCM.
 
#12 ·
in order to efficiently diagnose this, you need a device capable of recording data at high speed. hit record. induce symptom. go back and dissect frame by frame your PIDs immediately prior to the symptom to see what's going on.
without that data of the problem occuring, you're pretty much in the dark. you don't have anything raising eyebrows here
 
#14 ·
I think he was talking about data logging ICP/IPR in graph format, etc at intervals to see what is happening when it dies.
 
#16 ·
yea, i don't see the point where rpm drops to zero (dies) in that attachment. also, i'm not sure how fast ae records. if it's too slow, it may not catch the fault
 
#17 ·
Best I can do unfortunately

the AE will only save the data in excel format. This is the best i can do sorry, I was able to do a WOT run about 5 min into the log before it died, further down you can see where everything goes squirrely. Besides the cam crank sync in and out, after it died you can see the FICM voltages were low 10/40v it would not fire back up until i cycled the key a few times and the voltage jumped back up to normal. Maybe the FICM is toast...
 

Attachments

#18 ·
I had similar problems granted my alternator was the root of the problem but last year Mine would run great with no problems and touching the accelerator would be fine until it was running for a few minutes. But it would sputter out and die after a few minutes. My ficm readings were all over the place, from 30 to 100v lol, once readings went crazy truck died. Thought maybe power supply was bad so i swapped it out, no change. Looked for chaffed wires, couldn't find any. Although i did notice that the few minutes the truck was running i had time to wiggle wires and i would get engine to idle up and down which lead me to believe there was a chaffed wire until i tapped on the ficm case and truck died. So i knew there the problem was in the ficm. Did some research and came to the conclusion that there was a possible logic board issue. Sent it to ed at ficm repair and he confirmed it was a bad logic board. Not saying that is your problem but it sounds like the problem i had.
 
#19 ·
i think you guys are on the right track. i'm more concerned to see logicpwr up at 15v. but yes, it definitely seems to be jumping around from 10-15 when your problem is occuring. would be nice to see vpwr when that's occuring. if vpwr were remaining steady, while logic was jumping between 10-15, i'd certainly say the ficm was suspect. i do still think it looks like a ficm issue thoughfrom what you've provided
 
#20 ·
cuz thing is these vehicles will shut down modules if high charging voltage is detected. i believe 16v is the threshold before that begins to happen. i'd say just to be sure, monitor your battery voltage while the problem occurs. use the PID on your AE. you wanna see what the pcm sees. not directly off the battery. if your vpwr voltages look normal when it dies, i'd suspect the ficm
 
#21 ·
Good info, thanks guys. I have a spare alternator in the garage that I know is good so I will throw that on and see what happens, also my FICM is under warranty so I'm going to send it in and at the least they can check it out on their dime. I will post up anything I find out. MUCH APPRECIATED INFO!!!!
 
#23 ·
Have you checked your wiring harnesses real good? I had a very similar issue years ago with my 04, after trying for months fixing it I finally replaced the FICM and injector harnesses and the problem was solved.
 
#24 ·
With the cam synch, I don't know for sure, but it does use that cam and crank positions to fire 4 injectors per revolution, so with it firing the injectors thousands of times per minute, I would think it's necessary, but I have to defer to someone else. I can't see how the FICM knows how to fire the injectors at all if it's not synched up.
 
#28 ·
The coffee table book says that both are needed to calculate engine speed and position, but... I have read general descriptions of the two sensors that suggest that they may not be of equal importance - with the CKP used to "establish" the injector timing and the CMP used to "tune" the injector timing.

The underlying PPR (pulses per revolution) certainly support this. The CKP picks its signal up from a 60-tooth wheel with two consecutive missing teeth for the sync to TDC. The CMP - in contrast - is a single peg that triggers once-per-cam-rev. The PCM works to sync the two missing CKP teeth to the CMP peg.

If the CKP is more critical, it could be that wonky behavior by the CMP may be more tolerated by the PCM as compared to the CKP. This is only conjecture, though.
 
#26 ·
Have you researched all the known wire chafing areas on our trucks? There is one down by the throttle pedal that is known to get chafed, might be worth having a look at.

Just throwing some other ideas out there.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top