ICP code truck won't start, HELP!!! - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 09-27-2009, 12:32 PM
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ICP code truck won't start, HELP!!!

well i was driving downtown the other day and i came around a courner and gave my 2005 F-350 6.0L some acceleration and my truck "surged" kind of like a tranny slipping a gear. i thought WTF, so i come up to a red light, and when it turns green i accelerated a bit harder, there wasn't the power that the truck usually has, i made it to 80km/h and into 3rd gear and it "surged" again. i though i would take it really easy and get home then look at it. but i got to another light, accelerated nicely and went 20 feet and the truck completly stalled out, and check engine light come on. now i got towed home, my truck will turn over and fire like it wants to start but it won't run. i pulled the P2285 code and know that there is a problem with the ICP sensor. i have changed my fuel filters, i have fuel in the truck, i'm just wondering what i should do now, i have read alot about this issue and i can't find anyone with the same issues, they all say the truck will rum but it will be rough, which leads me to think it might be something else, like the FICM, i'm kinda stuck right now and i don't want to start changing a bunch of stuff out if there not broke. i have unplugged the ICP sensor and tried to start the truck but it doesen't even fire when unplugged, and i plug it back in and it does the same thing again. any help is greatly appreciated.
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Old 09-27-2009, 01:27 PM
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Its posible that the hpop is out,or the oil tube have poped off. The only way to tell is with a high pressure gauge.
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Old 09-27-2009, 02:21 PM
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ok, so i see 05's have a problem with the hpop fittings leaking, is that what your thinking? and i just need a high pressure gauge and hook it to the pump and see what its putting out then? i'm not much of a mechanic but i can do most stuff by myself, i'm just looking for a guide to steer me in the right direction, and i don't want to have to take it to a dealership and pay $110/hr for them to fix it. and from what i've seen on this site there are alot of really smart helpful people, so sorry for the newbie questions.

Last edited by JXpress; 09-27-2009 at 04:49 PM.
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Old 09-28-2009, 05:20 PM
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are there any other codes besides the icp one?
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Old 09-28-2009, 06:16 PM
LDH LDH is offline
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Remove your ICP sensor from the passenger side valve cover (it's toward the front). Just unplug it and use a 15/16 end wrench to remove it. Take that sensor with you to a hardware store or somewhere that sells fittings. It's metric, so you may have to shop around for one. Find a fitting that looks like the end of your ICP sensor. Once you do, screw a male hose connector into the fitting. What you're doing is converting the 1/4" threads on the air hose connector to the metric thread size of the ICP sensor. Screw your fitting into the port on the valve cover that the ICP goes in. Connect your shop air hose to it and apply 75 to 100 psi of air with your air compressor. Remove your oil fill tube on that same valve cover. It just screws out. Then remove the tube that runs from your turbo inlet hose to the breather hole on your driver's side valve cover. The turbo inlet hose will be a big round black hose coming from your air filter box. With shop air hooked up to your improvised fitting, you should be able to hear a hissing sound from one of or both valve covers IF you have a high pressure oil leak. Listen to the passenger side through your oil fill tube hole (that's why you removed it). You may have to improvise a stethascope with an old piece of radiator hose, etc. Also listen to your driver's side valve cover through the breather hole you opened up. This is a simple air diagnostics test that you can do yourself once you find the correct fitting for your air hose to go into the ICP port.
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Old 09-28-2009, 06:22 PM
LDH LDH is offline
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If you discover a high pressure oil leak, it's more than likely the dummy plug O rings that screw into the high pressure oil rails. They cost about $4.00, but they're a SOB to get to if they're bad on the passenger side. It could also be an STC fitting (snap to connect) on your high pressure oil pump. That's even harder to get to, but can save you hundreds if you do it yourself. Search my thread about "Missing and sometimes won't start" you'll see.
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Old 09-28-2009, 06:58 PM
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To add to LDH's post, you'll need to do this with IPR duty cycle commanded closed. You can do this by getting your hands on an old 7.3L injector pigtail or another old discarded 6.0L turbo VGT solenoid pigtail and splice in a + and - alligator clips to connect to your battery on one end, and the IPR valve on the other. Just don't leave it energized for more than 3 minutes at a time. This is IF you don't have access to a scan tool that has the capability to take active command of the IPR valve duty cycle. Typically, on 2005 model years, it's almost always been the STC fitting that has been the source of the high pressure oil system leak. Early 2005 model years use the style of dummy rail plug that requires the square drive of a 1/2" drive ratchet to remove. Later 2005 to 2007 model years that use the 10mm allen head dummy rail plugs are the style that tend to deteriorate the lower o-rings.

Above all else, you should monitor your ICP psi and ICP volts data at key-on/engine-off and key-on/engine-running before you get into the high pressure oil system testing, based on the fact that it's a P2285 DTC you are getting, and not a P2290 or P2291.
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Old 09-28-2009, 07:43 PM
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ok i will try all that, thanks for some insite, the only problem i have m-chan68 with key-on/engine-running is my truck won't even start it just fires and won't run, and the stc fitting is in the oil pump right? and chuckles, the p2285 is the only code i get. and thanks alot you guys for the help.

Last edited by JXpress; 09-28-2009 at 08:03 PM.
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Old 09-29-2009, 05:37 PM
LDH LDH is offline
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The STC is not actually "in" the pump. It screws into the pump. Imagine an air compressor with the male connector sticking out of it where you plug the hose on at. An air hose has the female side of the connector. You pull the collar back and stick it on, then let go of the collar. It's a quick connect fitting. If that fitting is bad and leaks air, your hose and air tool at the other end aren't going to have the same pressure they would normally have. Now picture your high pressure oil pump with that male adapter sticking out. Your branch tube would be your air hose, and your high pressure oil rails would be your air tool at the end. This is the best metaphor I can think of. If that branch tube and those oil rails can't get 500 psi built up, your truck won't start. M-Chan is trying to tell you that your quick connect that sticks out of your high pressure oil pump has gone bad. When your pump tries to build up oil pressure in that system, the oil leaks out of that quick connect fitting (STC) and goes back down into the crankcase, where it's cycled back through the system to do the same thing again, until the STC is replaced. That's the best way I can describe it. Here's a picture of it. I just did one on my truck.
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Old 09-29-2009, 05:45 PM
LDH LDH is offline
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To get to the STC fitting, you will have to remove your turbo and the pedistool it sits on. Once you've done that, you will be starring at a cover about half the size of a shoebox lid. 10 bolts hold that cover on. When you remove it, you will then be looking right at the high pressure oil pump. It's held in by 3 bolts. There are 2 bolts that hold the STC to the branch tube. You'll have to take those 2 out too, in order to grab the pump and lift it up out of there. Once you do, you can put it in a vise and unscrew your STC from the pump and put the new adapter on.
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