I've got about 120 miles on her now and now have a surge when stopped on the road and the turbo will also spool unnecessarily on the highway when surging. It also just about conked out when stopped in between surging. Luckily I have 30 days 3,000 miles to work a lot of this out.
Sounds like the classic VGT seizing up inside the turbo by the way you describe the symptom. On a low mileage vehicle like this, used as such, would be the most likely vehicle to experience this.
So to you experts of the 6.0, please help me fix my ride. I've done some searches have come back with the all too likely suspects, the EGR valve/Cooler and possibly the Injectors. I will be taking it to the dealer to exercise my warranty but would like to go in with a targeted list. The idea being that we can fix one thing and move on to the next and so on until my 30 days run out.
Although I understand your motives, you need to bear in mind that FoMoCo is being VERY tight with what they will authorize for warranty repairs, due to its relatively high cost. Remember, even if YOU aren't paying for the repair, SOMEONE is. That said, if it's a repair on the manufacturer's dime, THEY are the ones who are going to dictate the repairs to be done, NOT the dealership or the technician doing the repair. This reminds me of a customer that darkened my doorstep about a week ago, and his words were "replace as many parts as possible, whether they are good or not". In other words, asking me to commit warranty fraud on his behalf, at the risk of putting my job and the dealership's status in jeopardy with Ford warranty. In plain English, any time a warranty repair catches the attention of someone higher up at FoMoCo due to the high cost, it is put under a microscope, and if anything appears suspect, the repair is charged back to the dealership.
This is not to say that I don't want to see you get anything and everything addressed on your truck before your warranty expires, and it's a very nice looking truck by the way. I am just hoping that this post will be a very strong reminder that it's NOT up to the tech doing the repair in the end.
Also, if it is EGR Related has anyone tried the bulletproof EGR or is a bypass a better bet? I'm thinking I'd like to stay legal but want to be as reliable as possible so a delete may be in the works.
I'm assuming it will not pass emissions in MD without the EGR?
Thanks in advance for the help guys, this site rocks! I don't want to return or regret my decision.
On a low mileage truck like this, I would rather see a beefier EGR cooler installed as opposed to NO EGR cooler, just by virtue of the fact that it is an emission control device that affects driveability directly. The best course of action really is, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". This way, there is no risk of causing further issues by "getting into it". Like you say, if you remove or delete your EGR system, your NOx readings will go through the roof and likely fail your local emissions tests. Just my