Missing and sometimes won't start

[LDH]

Ok. Here's a status update....I put the passenger side oil rail back together. I used a 3/8 torque ratchet on the bolts that hold the oil rail on. The torque specs said 10ft lbs, so I set my ratchet at 120 inch lbs. I had to use an adapter in order to use this 3/8 ratchet with the 1/4 T30 star socket bit I had. When I torqued the first bolt, the wrench never clicked and the bolt twisted off. I was able to recover the head of the bolt, along with about 3/8 of an inch of bolt and thread that came out attached to the head of it. I went ahead and put the other 8 bolts in and tightened them by hand until they were nice and snug. I didn't trust the ratchet after what happened to first bolt. As for the remaining part of the bolt that twisted off...I couldn't get it out. I'm sure it's tight enough in there though that it won't back itself out over time. Like I said before, I plan on replacing my injectors sometime in the future when I get the money to buy them. When that time comes, I will try to get the remaining part of that bolt out with a tiny drill bit and an easy out. Once I reassembled everything, I took it out for a drive. It started easier than I thought it would. I cranked for 10 or 15 seconds, stopped, then repeated this cycle a few times and it fired off. I got 1/2 mile from home and a loud explosion came from under the hood that broke my heart. I thought my engine had blown, but thankfully it was just the turbo intake pipe that runs from the radiator area up to the turbo. I hadn't got the clamp tight enough apparently (it had some oil on it too) and it had blown loose. I put it back on and it ran like a champ. I drove it about 35 miles then brought it back home. I shut it off, tried to restart it to see if my problem was fixed, and it would not start. I was dissappointed, but had a sneaking suspicion that it was also the STC fitting as well as the dummy plug O ring. I went ahead and drove it to work today, but when I got off I went to Ford and ordered the STC fitting. Then I came home and tore the engine down. I got the turbo off and the pedistool it mounts to. Everything went fine. My STC fitting won't be here until Thursday, so I'm waiting to remove the HPOP cover. I don't wan't the engine exposed until the STC gets here so I can get it put back together the same day I take the cover off. I have a question though, by looking at the bolts that hold the HPOP cover on, it looks like 3 on the driver's side, 2 on the front, and 3 under the EGR cooler tube (passenger side). How do I get those 3 out? I know I can get in there with an end wrench, but it doesn't look like there's enough room to pull the bolt out of it's hole once I do. Any tips on how to not drop anything into the engine right there would be appreciated. Thanks.

[chuckles]

personally I would get that broken bolt fixed asap, since that rail is under high pressure. and I would get a 1/4" tq wrench. 3/8" are not accurate down to that level, even if they have it on the guage. clicker wrenches are most accurate in the middle of their range.

[forddieseldoctor]

8 mm gearwrench to remove bolts you won't get them out of the cover so just be careful when you roll the cover out. the book says to unbolt the up-pipes to remove the cover. but i work them out of there with out.

[LDH]

Okay. Pulling the turbo off wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. I had read alot of threads on what a pain that is, etc. I used a 1/4" ratchet, short 10mm socket, and an extension about 6" long on the rear bolt that holds it to the pedistool. I put a 9/16 end wrench on the handle for a cheater to bust it loose, then it came out by hand. The left turbo bolt had came out because it was laying on the top of the valley under the pedistool once I got everything off. Makes me wonder if someone's been in there before. That or it just came loose over time. Should I put anything on the bolts when I reassemble? Anti-seeze or anything?

[LDH]

Mr. Chan, if you're reading this thread I could sure use some advice. I'm down to my HPOP cover and have all the bolts out except for the 3 under the EGR pipe. They're all loose and I need to know how to get the cover off without those 3 bolts falling out into the engine. Also, how do I get the cover back on with those 3 bolts in the holes? Thanks.

[LDH]

Well, here it is guys. For all of you 6.0 owners who want to know what the high pressure oil pump looks like, this is it. I'm replacing the STC fitting on mine and snapped a few pictures after I got the HPOP cover off. If you look closely at the picture of the cover, you will see how I tied a piece of thread to the 3 bolts on the passenger side of the cover before taking the cover off. The reason for this is: those 3 bolts won't come out of their holes once they're unscrewed all the way because the EGR cooler pipe sits right above them. In order to get the cover off (without removing the intake), you have to lift it up at an angle (driver's side of the cover in the air), then kind of roll it back toward the front of the truck. With those 3 bolts dangeling in their holes until it's out from under the EGR cooler pipe, it's kind of a dangerous situation. You don't want those bolts falling into the engine which is now exposed since you've taken the cover off. That's why the thread. If they do fall, you can retrieve them without alot of trouble. Hope my pictures help someone out in the future.

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[LDH]

Status update: I got the new STC kit installed, put the HPOP back in, got the cover on, put the turbo back in, drove it 15 or 20 miles, brought it back home, and shut it off. It still ran pretty rough and wouldn't start after I shut it off. I spent all evening putting it back together and went for my test drive around midnight. Obviously, I was frustrated. That STC replacement was a time consuming, tedious, very uncomfortable job. I guess I'm going to tear the driver's side down now and replace the dummy plug O rings over there. Hopefully that will fix it. I just hope it's not an O ring on the top of one or two of my injectors, because I was told those aren't replaceable without replacing the entire injector itself. As always, i'll keep you guys posted.

[DieselJuice]

Good luck man! My 03 6.0 has the same symptoms yours is having. I don't think I have the stc fitting but I think everything else is the same. Well at least you know all those other o-rings are in good shape! Could it be your IPR valve? Or the FICM? These 6.0l's....hard to diagnose....Maybe the HPOP itself is hooped?

[DieselJuice]

P.S...as for the sputtering situation,mine was doing that really bad...my indicator for the air filter had just barely moved so I figured my filter was still clean....wrong! I pulled the air cleaner and a hand full of dirt fell out before I even tapped it....cleaned the MAF sensor with brake clean and installed new filter and the sputering going down the hwy totally went away...the hard starting when hot didn't...

[LDH]

Thanks. I don't think it's my HPOP because there wasn't any debri in the IPR screen when I removed it during the STC replacement. The O rings on the high pressure oil rail under the passenger side valve cover all all in good shape. Now it has the new style adapter that connects the HPOP to the branch tube, that replaces the STC fitting. Come Tuesday, it'll have new O rings on the driver's side oil rail.