Injectors went bad after oil change?

[Deib]

We bought this used '04 6.0l. It has 75 k miles on it.

As in buying a used truck we started to service it.
it may have had a bad injector when we bought it, but couldn't tell for sure. It was pretty faint.

Now we changed engine oil to Mobil Delvac 15w40. We changed air, oil and fuel filters to Motorcraft from the ford dealer.

It had other brand filters in it before and not sure what oil.

We also filled the fuel tank and used the Ford Fuel additive.

Now we have 3 bad injectors, 1,3, & 7.

I have read where they may stick and is there anyway to unstick them?
Would an oil additive work like Lucas?

Am I way off base?
Maybe we did something when we washed off the engine?

Any help appreciated.


thanks

[m-chan68]

I would start with the simplest and easiest fix, and that would be to have it reflashed to the latest and greatest most current calibration? How was it determined that cylinders 1, 3 and 7 were faulty?

[ajpu1983]

If it was injector codes from the buzz test one of the 3 IDM plugs may have become unhooked.

[Deib]

It was checked with an OTC Gensis scan tool. It comes up as those 3 cylinders failed contribution test.

It is sparratic, number 7 came up by itself first run, then 1 &3 & 7
Then just 1&3, Then just 1, now all 3 are up again, but it never ran any better or worse.

It passed the buzz test.

No other engine related codes.

Looks like the PCM was flashed twice, that last one was still a couple years ago. Just hard to imagine an oil change could start all of this.

[m-chan68]

Does the scan tool read live data, or just pull codes? If you can read live data, access FICM_L, FICM_M and FICM_V readings. What readings do you get, at key-on/engine-off, while cranking the engine over, key-on/engine-running and when you rev it FULL WIDE OPEN THROTTLE to 3800 to 4000 RPMs?

[2003 stroker]

I am having the same problem. I bought a f350 6.0 with 79000 on it about 2 months ago. Changed the oil and filter and fuel filters, drove it 2 miles and started running bad. lots of white smoke and will not run over 2700 rpm.

[Deib]

Originally Posted by m-chan68

Does the scan tool read live data, or just pull codes? If you can read live data, access FICM_L, FICM_M and FICM_V readings. What readings do you get, at key-on/engine-off, while cranking the engine over, key-on/engine-running and when you rev it FULL WIDE OPEN THROTTLE to 3800 to 4000 RPMs?

Didn't do the engine cranking.

But, Key on Engine off. L=12.48 M=47.92, V=12.48
Engine running L-13.48, M=47.92, V=12.98
WOT L=13.48, M=48.42, V=13.98

So what does that tell me?

Thanks,

[Deib]

Okay update.

I changed oil out for ****s and giggles. We swapped to havoline 5w-40 synthetic.

So we fired it up, ran the piss out of it and now the injectors seemed to have calmed down with maybe one still missing.

But now it smokes really black all the time, light throttle or not.
New code, crank position sensor.

Why am I getting all of these codes out of the blue?

I have focused on the engine codes,but here are all of them, or most of them.

P0720
p2617
p0307
p0683
p0263
p0269

Not sure what to think, should I throw a crank sensor in it? Will that make it burn so black?
Off to search now.

[m-chan68]

Originally Posted by Deib

Didn't do the engine cranking.

But, Key on Engine off. L=12.48 M=47.92, V=12.48
Engine running L-13.48, M=47.92, V=12.98
WOT L=13.48, M=48.42, V=13.98

So what does that tell me?

Thanks,

Okay, well that tells me your FICM is good, unless FICM_M is decreasing to less than 46 volts and lower under any given condition. Typically, if it maintains 47.5 to 49.0 under all conditions, then that tells me your FICM is very strong.

[chuckles]

you said you washed it? Right. I bet your harness has a couple shorts in it and you got it wet. check your engine harness for shorts near the FICM, intake bolts, Crank sensor harness, EBP sensor harness, and where the harness connects up to the body at the left fender well. Wiggle it when it's running and see it it acts up.