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Old 08-23-2009, 08:25 PM
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injector replacement help

So I begged the wife, got my nuts back from her purse and decided I would do my own injectors.(still afraid of studding it myself though)

I have all the junk cleared off the top of the pass side valve cover, but how the heck do you get to the 2 VC bolts that are along the AC box?

I know I have seen several how-to's in the past but cannot for the life of me find them now.

Can someone please tell me how to get to those 2 bolts or point me in the direction of a how-to.

Thanks!
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Old 08-25-2009, 08:30 PM
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I just wanted to say thanks for the overwhelming amount of advise that came pouring in!

flexy ratchet wrench!

so, what about the PITA torx rail bolts? Trying real hard not to strip the rear pass side one with the little wrench I have......
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Old 08-25-2009, 08:38 PM
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i've done injectors on a 7.3 before. . . never a 6.0. . . what bolt are you talking about?
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Old 08-25-2009, 08:38 PM
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Why not just take the evaporator core housing right out of the truck? It has 6 nuts holding it in and takes about 10 mins to pull out and then you have like 2 feet of work room!
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Old 08-25-2009, 08:40 PM
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Also if you dont want to take that out you can just use a 1/4 in drive torx, there should be enough room for that, once they break loose they can come out with your fingers.
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Old 08-26-2009, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeproc View Post
Why not just take the evaporator core housing right out of the truck? It has 6 nuts holding it in and takes about 10 mins to pull out and then you have like 2 feet of work room!
I thaught you'd have to release all the coolant in the A/C system to do that.
are you talking realease from behind the glovebox or can you split the housing under the hood without dumping "feon"?

I was using a 1/4 drive torx for the 2 lower rear ones. I got 7 of 8 but I BROKE the bit on the last rear one! I'll get a higher quality one after work today and give it another go. I'm just super paranoid Ill strip it. I stripped the dam head plug when I did the return line on the fuel system and had to pound a bit in an did a little prayer and saccrificed a chicken to get that one out.

Also, I guess I was looking at a 7.3 how to where you have to use the special tool to seperate the branch tube. On a 6.0 its just the stand pipe right? that seperated out perfectly.
I have the replacement dummyplugs, new glowplugs, syringe and tube to suck the cylinders. Anything else you guys can think of?

genuinely thank you this time!
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Old 08-26-2009, 01:57 PM
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Yeah you need to evacuate it. As far as oil dumping, When I did my injectors they didnt drip any oil at all into the cylinders. Get new orings for that high pressure oil tube also. And make sure you put new orings and crush washer on the injectors before installing.
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Old 08-27-2009, 08:58 AM
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I totally forgot about rings for that HPO rail/stand pipe!

So heres where I'm at.
Got all 4 pass side injectors out, new ones in. Got a 1/4 t30 impact socket for lik 2$.
Got all 4 glow plugs done too. None of mine spilled any fuel/oil either (maybe a drop, not enough to even suction out).
I went to set the injector hold downs and my 3/8 t40 is TOO FAT! I can't get it in next to the injector to torq the hold downs! so back to napa I go!
also my '05 doesnt have the glow plug buss bar, 4 individual plug boots much like a spark plug boot. They were a biatch. if I hadn't had the valve covers off I would have never got them out. I ended up using a flat screw driver to pop them from inside the head. Now the come off like they should, I guess 5 years bound them up pretty well.

So I should have the pass side done tonite and hopefully into the drivers side. I'll take some pics and post them up maybe save someone else some of the greef have had(and multiple trips for tools).
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Old 08-28-2009, 09:28 PM
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i dont know if you are done or not but before you put them injectors back in you are going to want to use an air hose and blow out the holes were the injector retaining clips thread into. if there is oil in there, which there def is then you are going to be torquing them down with the oil in there causing pressure and will run into problems with the injectors backing out. my buddy had this problem with his one injection and that was the cause. i always blow them out before putting the new injectors in.

btw on the passenger side if you remove the wheel well it makes working on that side a breeze. driver side isnt bad, get the intake and degas bottle out the way and you are good to go. just remember to tq them down to 26ft lbs and if you have to use a grinder and grind away at your socket to fit it in there. they certainly put them bolts too close to the injectors
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Old 08-30-2009, 12:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03f250stroke View Post
i dont know if you are done or not but before you put them injectors back in you are going to want to use an air hose and blow out the holes were the injector retaining clips thread into. if there is oil in there, which there def is then you are going to be torquing them down with the oil in there causing pressure and will run into problems with the injectors backing out. my buddy had this problem with his one injection and that was the cause. i always blow them out before putting the new injectors in.


use a grinder and grind away at your socket to fit it in there. they certainly put them bolts too close to the injectors
2 days late on that one.....I ended up finding a long1/4 hex shanked torx and punching out the short one I had. worked cherry.
heres hoping I got all the oil out!
Just finished about an hr ago. Had me real worried, I "pre filled" everything, injectors rails, have a rr fuel so I figured prime it, and it would fire.
everything I read said like 15-30 second crank. so after I started smoking the started I stopped....waited tried like 5 times finally it lit ad purred........

WHoly Hell Batman........shes neverran this good! almost worth the $$$$$
so the list goes:
stage 2's $1800 plus $1250 core +/- 12 hrs off and on plus 3 trips for wrenches/sockets
IPR $320 wrench for ipr $20 5 min (after turbo removal)
CPS $60 5 min
SCT fitting (that was already done) $50 10 min fighting cover (turbo already out, mod already done)
dummy plugs (x2) $35
stand pipe rings $20
glow plugs $120 all 8
oil change $60
CCV mod $10 10 min (mostly to fix my last attempt)
turbo cleaning (1" pads) $10 2 hrs out/clean/in seafoam deep creep is great!


after all that, I am really looking forward to the head studs!
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