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injector advice?

1K views 7 replies 6 participants last post by  zogger 
#1 ·
Going out to battle my first injector swap. It's #6 so I, happy about that, but just wondering if anyone has any good advice?
 
#2 · (Edited)
Take your time, make sure the bolt hole and cup is cleaned out all the way before you Re install the injector, and again, take your time. It's not hard, but there's plenty to screw up in a hurry if it's your first time.

And you probably already know, but the metal injector clips for the electrical connection push DOWN, they don't pull up (well they do, but then usually they fly across your shop never to be seen again). Once the clip is disengaged, a 12pt 18MM socket makes a great tool to collapse the clips that hold it to the rocker box.
 
#3 ·
^^^ What he said, plus make sure the copper washer comes out with the injector. Do one at a time. I just did a set and found the new washer on the bench, AFTER I reinstalled all the injectors and had the valve covers on. Wasted another hour finding the injector and putting the washer on. If the old copper washer doesn't come out with the injector, I have found that a short length of welding wire bent with a small hook on the end can grab it pretty well. If it's the rear injector hole you will need a mirror to see down there... don't ask how I know...
 
#4 ·
Lost a rear one here also. Tried the mirror and hook thing for about an hour to no avail. I ended up using a pistol grip air nozzle and blew it out. Started with low pressure so I could see it come out.
 
#5 · (Edited)
I used a 19mm 12 point socket to get the injector plug out.

Depending on what year your truck is, the injector hold down bracket bolt is a T-40 or a T-45. I just finished my injector swap today (bad #7 , way in the back) and mine had T-40 head on it. I bought a 4 dollar Torx bit set at harbor freight to get that bolt undone. The 3/8" drive Torx I had was too wide to get a really good bite into the bolt head, and I didn't want to strip anything so I waited until I could get the right tool.

So... I'll just list the tools I found useful:

10mm ratchet wrench
12mm ratchet wrench
10mm deep socket
12mm deep socket
Electrical Tape for any bad spots in the wiring harness (Get 3M, the good stuff)
T-30 for the HP Oil Rail bolts
T-40 or 45 for the injector hold down bracket bolt
10mm Allen wrench / socket for the StandPipes and Dummy Plugs (I've read that some are 12mm, probably updated ones, but mine were 10mm)

Air tools are great, but sort of bulky to get in there with. DO NOT break loose bolts with air tools. Do it by hand, then use power tools to back out the rest of the way.

Oil. Battery charger for truck, or another standby vehicle to jump start truck. You're going to have to crank the hell out of it before it starts. I was worried with how long it was taking, batteries died, used old F150 to jumper across to batteries. Took a really long time to purge the air out of the high pressure oil system (probably total time of 4 minutes of cranking... Not all at once, of course.)

The cranking really had me worried, but I then saw the ICP pressure start to build on my LivewireTS, and as soon as it hit 500PSI she fired right up and ran so smooth!

Also, the "Blue Spring" upgrade is something you should probably do if you haven't already. I'm pretty sure low fuel pressure is what killed my injector, and that fixes low fuel pressue. I did that at the same time i did my injector replacement. 80 bucks for that kit vs hundreds for injectors....

Fuel filters a good idea too (both of them) if you haven't recently.


Good luck!!!!!!
 
#6 ·
I am about to take on this project as well. shop said fuel pressure reg replace and was going to ask about the blue spring upgrade. thanks for that info! i have injectors 1, 3, and 7 bad, so im going to replace all 4 on that side. is there a brand that is better than others, or ones to steer clear of? rockauto had the best prices i found, and was thinking of going with the delphi ones. delphi had the best fuel pump for my old s10 blazer.
 
#7 ·
From what I have read, there is only one injector manufacturer. Most of what you will find for a reasonable price are remanufactured... That being said, some "remanufacturers" are probably better than others...

I got mine from the Ford dealership here in Tucson. It was 445 bucks, and a 180 core refund when the old one is returned to them. So it comes out to be 265. There are probably better deals out there, but I needed it that day. It's got a 2 year warranty from Ford, and it came with new o rings and the copper washer.

I'm not sure if other places warranty their stuff, so the added cost (which is probably not all that much) is most likely worth it. I've also seen other places that offer a core refund, but some of them are "conditional" so you may not get the full core back. The parts counter guy didn't even look in the box when I returned the core.

Whichever place you decided to get your injectors from,good luck,and remember to take it nice and slow when you're doing the swap,and don't lose the valve cover bolt in the black hole of nothingness like I did ;)
 
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