I used a 19mm 12 point socket to get the injector plug out.
Depending on what year your truck is, the injector hold down bracket bolt is a T-40 or a T-45. I just finished my injector swap today (bad
#7 , way in the back) and mine had T-40 head on it. I bought a 4 dollar Torx bit set at harbor freight to get that bolt undone. The 3/8" drive Torx I had was too wide to get a really good bite into the bolt head, and I didn't want to strip anything so I waited until I could get the right tool.
So... I'll just list the tools I found useful:
10mm ratchet wrench
12mm ratchet wrench
10mm deep socket
12mm deep socket
Electrical Tape for any bad spots in the wiring harness (Get 3M, the good stuff)
T-30 for the HP Oil Rail bolts
T-40 or 45 for the injector hold down bracket bolt
10mm Allen wrench / socket for the StandPipes and Dummy Plugs (I've read that some are 12mm, probably updated ones, but mine were 10mm)
Air tools are great, but sort of bulky to get in there with. DO NOT break loose bolts with air tools. Do it by hand, then use power tools to back out the rest of the way.
Oil. Battery charger for truck, or another standby vehicle to jump start truck. You're going to have to crank the hell out of it before it starts. I was worried with how long it was taking, batteries died, used old F150 to jumper across to batteries. Took a really long time to purge the air out of the high pressure oil system (probably total time of 4 minutes of cranking... Not all at once, of course.)
The cranking really had me worried, but I then saw the ICP pressure start to build on my LivewireTS, and as soon as it hit 500PSI she fired right up and ran so smooth!
Also, the "Blue Spring" upgrade is something you should probably do if you haven't already. I'm pretty sure low fuel pressure is what killed my injector, and that fixes low fuel pressue. I did that at the same time i did my injector replacement. 80 bucks for that kit vs hundreds for injectors....
Fuel filters a good idea too (both of them) if you haven't recently.
Good luck!!!!!!