6.0 Turbo Diagram or Schematic? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 08-21-2009, 05:37 AM
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6.0 Turbo Diagram or Schematic?

Does anyone know where I can get a schematic or diagram of the 6.0's turbo operation?

I cleaned my turbo when I had it off during EGR delete and the truck sounds like it is sucking air under load with the turbo. The sound goes away when I disconnect the wastegate connection. In either case, the truck has no power.

I took the turbo off again and checked the cleaning and operation of the disk and vanes, but I'm thinking I may have put it back together incorrectly. The disk is controlled by a cam and I'm not sure of the disks original position relative to the cam since it fell apart when I first took the turbo apart. The CAM is positioned at about 2:00 (both times turbo taken apart). It seemed to line up good if the disk was positioned such that the vanes were opened (meaning turned almost perpendicular to the disk). I'm thinking that maybe that position should have been having the vanes closed (recessed under the disk). And maybe the turbo CAM is working backwards.

I don't know exactly how it works internally so that's why I'm looking for a diagram. I have checked all the connections both mechanical and electrical (and now installed the turbo twice) and I'm fairly certain this is something with the turbo as the truck sounds much better with the turbo disconnected electrically.

If anyone has any ideas of knows of a schematic, please post.

Scott
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Old 08-21-2009, 05:58 AM
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pill the actuator off the turbo and look in the end of it ans see if its plugged with little black particles if it is your turbo feed line is bad and needs to be changed also the actuator might be bad. heres a link to the diagraph for ya. 6.0L Bible Table of Contents
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Old 08-21-2009, 06:49 AM
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Thanks for the info Purplehorn. I'll check the actuator. The diagram in the bible also helped out. Looks like the vanes in the turbo need to be closed at idle, which would have been the position of the CAM and vanes when I took it out. When I re-assembled the turbo, I had the vanes open. My guess is that the CAM is positioned for the vanes to be closed, but they are actually open. Probably not a big deal at idle. But when I try and accelerate, the CAM trys to open the vanes and it can't since they are already open. Not sure what that would do but can't be anything good.
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Old 08-21-2009, 06:58 AM
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it could also be that the tone ring has a slot warn into it. have seen this on alot of turbos on the international trucks. if thats the case your pretty much screwed cause you cant get just that part. you got to replace the whole dang thing and if thats the case go aftermarket get a better turbo for around the same ifnot less money.
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Old 08-21-2009, 07:18 AM
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what is the tone ring and where can I check it?
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Old 08-21-2009, 08:22 PM
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Think he is talking about the unison ring(the ring that moves the vanes themselves). You can buy that part seperately.
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Old 08-23-2009, 10:34 AM
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When you play with the vanes and the ring, you are correct that is closed at low boost to give more air across the impellor. As long as the variable plunger is connected to the ring and the notch in the vanes are sitting in the slots of the ring and the hinge is in the keeper on the other side, you can not install it incorrectly; you wont be able to get it closed unless the hinges points are not in the veins (bad thing) or are in the hinge points. If it is not in the correct place (hinge points), catastrophic failure of the turbo is immenent, due to the vien coming in contact with the impellor. Often the veins will stick with the ring and do not move due to carbon build up, that is usually what causes the problems with turbo performance; the ECM senses too much boost and the ECM cuts back the fuel. You would be better off with it stuck more open, at least you would get performance but with turbo lag. As indicated previously, the variable control could be stuck, blocked (highly unlikely) or disconnected either electrically or mechanically. You could try moving the plunger manually or see if it moves under load in the vehicle. Since you have taken it apart 2 times, you should have a good feel for how it dismantles and operates.

Last edited by twoicebergs; 08-23-2009 at 10:38 AM.
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Old 08-24-2009, 05:52 AM
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thank for the information .... I took the turbo out and checked the function of the vanes and ring and they are operating properly. Interesting that the ONLY way I can get it to line up correctly with the locator and CAM is to position the ring such that the vanes are all the way open. I have finally deduced that this must be the default position since every time I have had the turbo apart the CAM is at the 2:00 position. It must reset it there during idle or after the engine is turned off.

After I bolted the turbo back in, test drove and still had it sounding like it was sucking air, I found an exhaust leak at the Y-pipe on the right side of the turbo. This never quite lined up 100%, but I was always able to get the clamp on it and I assumed (maybe incorrectly) that tightening the clamp would bring it together. I need to check more int if the leak is from the Y pipe connection to the turbo or to the other connection to the up-pipe. If I stick my hand over the Y-pipe I can feel exhaust coming straight up. I'm guessing and hoping its not the connection to the up-pipe since that is mostly blocked with the heat shield, but need to try and locate better for sure. That's tonight's project, northeast weather permitting. I have talked to a few techs I know and all say that ANY exhaust leak and all bets are off with the turbo, so hopefully I'm on to it now.

A bright note is that I'm just about an expert getting the turbo in and out now. I can round-trip in about an hour. A big help is that the rear bolt to the pedestal is not installed and never will be again.

Scott
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Old 08-24-2009, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottsimm View Post

A bright note is that I'm just about an expert getting the turbo in and out now. I can round-trip in about an hour. A big help is that the rear bolt to the pedestal is not installed and never will be again.

Scott
...I had a problem getting everything to line back up when I put the turbo back in. only two bolts holding the turbo to the motor, and of course, they are the two that are the hardest to get to. I had to disconnect the down pipe just to get at them.

Good Job on locating your issue.
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Old 08-25-2009, 05:49 AM
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So last night I verified the leak was from the Y-pipe connection to the turbo. I repositioned it and reconnected the clamps on both the Y-pipe and downpipe. Still had the leak. I can feel the exhaust flowing up from where the clamp is separated where the screw is to tighten it.

So I reefed on it further and still had the leak. Reefed on it more and finally broke the clamp.

Using a mirror, it looked like the connection was tight where the leak appears to be. After breaking the clamp and looking where the turbo and Y-pipe are positioned, they are about 1/4-1/2 inch away and slightly out of alignment if they were to be pushed straight together.

The turbo has one bolt installed (front one closest to the Y-pipe) to the pedestal. Neither the turbo nor the Y-pipe wants to move very much. And with the turbo bolted I assume its in its corrected position so I need to look for give at the Y-pipe.

I'm now thinking that the leak is because even though its clamped tight, the Y-pipe is pulling away with enough force that the clamp can't hold it tight enough to form a vacuum. As part of the EGR delete, there was a new pipe installed from the other side of the Y-pipe (a replacement for the EGR up-pipe with no T connection for the EGR cooler). I'm wondering if having this new pipe connected is pulling the Y-pipe back a little.

My next attempt is to loosen this pipe and see of the Y-pipe moves closer to the turbo.

Looking for advice is anyone has gone through this before or has any ideas.


Scott
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