Air Cleaner Problem

[Vance Hackney]

I have a 03' F250 SD Crew Cab with 6.0 lt and 6spd manual. I have never tried to take the air cleaner out to clean or replace - left it up to the dealer ship. I'm now experiencing low fuel mileage and can barely here the turbo. I tried removing the 2 clips on the front and rear of the canister but can't seem to get the !XXX!?? thing out of there. Does any body know how to remove it with busting every thing around it. Thanks in advance for any help.

[stump0331]

just a side note, have you had the fuel filter replaced lately?




and

[RET]

on the back piece (closest to the fire wall): Undo the clips and pull the hose (not the filter piece) up slightly and then push it back (towards the fire wall).
It should move away far enough to let you start to work the filter housing out.

[Vance Hackney]

Changed fuel filters at 30000, and just cleard 40000.
air cleaner rear housing will not disconnect at the bottom. Cant figure it out.

[720Deere]

Sometimes the easiest thing to do is disconnect the entire thing from the turbo inlet. You will have to disconnect the filter minder and the air meter wiring, but it gives you more room to wiggle.

This method makes it come out easy but going back in sure isn't any more fun!

With the design of these filters, I would doubt that you find that to be the cure. At 10,000 miles since last change the fuel filters could be suspect. I just changed mine at 10 and some change and the water seperator had some crud stuck to it. Not enough to cause a problem, but much more than I thought possible since I'm a clean fuel freak. Also if your water seperator filter has seen any H2O, it may be swelling up and cutting off the fuel flow.

[tractor nut]

napa makes a kit that replaces the ford stock one i think it is very similar but supposidley makes a 2 hour job into a 10 minute job not sure of the price but might be worth checking out. i know the napa here offers it they wanted to sell me one for our work trucks

[mwberg]

Check into replacing the stock unit with the Wix 24490. Saw it priced for 82.97 at Filter1 Wix heavy duty engine, oil, automotive, truck, and tractor filers.

[Edward Bruck]

Will the wix unit void the warranty?

[dannyboy950]

The main body of the filter on the botton has 2 slots on each end, the end caps have 2 tabs that fit in these slots. On the bottom of the main body there are 2 posts that fit into 2 rubber grommets. All of which are very tight fits.

I like to start with the front end cap after unclipping the clips which I then remove from the houseing and set aside so they do not fall into the fender well and be lost forever. With a rocking /pulling/lifting swearing motion you unseat the front cap, while holding down on the main body with your third hand. Once unseated you then shove it as far forward as you can, as it will tend to quite easily slip back into place and reseat itself and you get to start all over again.

AS you are doing this you will notice the main body will keep trying to unseat and come up with the end cap, which there is no room for it to do. So hold down firmly with that third hand.

The rear cap is basicaly the same procedure only you disconnect it from the turbo in-pipe and remove the tattletail and electrical connections. Once unseated I remove it from the vechicle, this procedure can sometimes be as complex as the other and will be discussed in my next book.

Now that everything is unseated and shoved out of the way you will notice that the main body which so easily tried to unseat while removeing the end caps is now stuck quite fast and will require more rocking/pulling/swearing motion to remove.

I wish you luck and a little antiseptic will help on all those lttle cuts and scrapes you are going to get. I am sorry I don't have time to exsplain the joys of trying to get those end caps back on and seated properly.