ok I just put the multimeter on the batteries. Here's what I found.
WHEN I FIRST OPENED THE HOOD, truck had been sitting for about 4 hours from the last time it had been driven.
-Driver side battery - 12.6x volts
-Passenger side battery - 12.5x volts
I started the truck (starter still didn't seem to have it's same pep)
WHILE ENGINE RUNNING
-Alternator - 14.24 to 14.26 volts
-Driver side battery - 14.17 to 14.18 volts
-Passenger side battery - 14.19 to 14.21 volts
I went and turned the truck off, got out, came back to the engine compartment and checked the batteries again
-DRIVER SIDE BATTERY - I put the multimeter on it and it read 13.27 volts and was slowly dropping. I removed the leads and re applied them it was a few clicks lower and continued to drop, I removed them again and re applied them and watched it hit 13.00 volts and it stopped moving.
-PASSENGER SIDE BATTERY - I checked this battery next, it initially read 13.1x volts and was also dropping, I removed the leads and then checked again, same thing still dropping. I watched it drop down to about 12.96 volts. I removed the leads and tested one more time it was at 12.94 and slowly still dropping.
finally, after checking the passenger battery I checked the driver battery again and it was still at 13.00.
I now have questions and conclusions.
Is it normal for the voltage to drop like that? It was at 14.xx while the truck was running but when the truck wasn't running the batteries were in the high 12's for voltage.
I now know my new alternator is good. at 14.2x volts it's where it's supposed to be.
I'm gonna run by the parts store tomorrow and have them check the CCA's on the batteries
2008 F250 Lariat CC/SB 4X4
COBRA 29LX, Firestiks, Ranch Hands, AmsOil EABP90 bypass filter x 2, Flo-Pro 5" stainless w/ DEI wrapped 4" downpipe, S&B CAI, SCT LiveWire
To install still-AutoMeter 60psi boost gauge, AeroForce Interceptor scan gauge, Flo-Pro EGR delete with stainless elbow with custom welded 1/8 NPT bung, racor ccv4500
***BEATER***1976 F100 Ranger