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6.0 dies after running - wont start until cool - help!

89K views 20 replies 18 participants last post by  ChrisSki 
#1 ·
OK boys - Put on your thinking caps as I am a rookie at this site and a rookie Diesel owner.

6 Mos. ago my F350 6.0 started acting up. It would start fine in the morning but as soon as it heated up and I turned it off - forgetaboutit!! I had to wait until it cooled down. To make a long story longer I I took it into the dealer and they replaced the High Pressure Oil Pump and TA DA!! Everything was fine...they told me that I was lucky that it was still under warranty as that repair cost about $3000.00! ! !

Now it is happening again....and the truck is out of warranty. If I take it to the dealer I better take the KY Jelly......

Not only is it doing the same thing ...it is now dying in traffic - at stoplights - and it wont start until it's cooled off.

I think this is a high pressure oil problem again. I just finished replacing all the "O" rings on stand pipes, et al, along the wavy rail - 10 in all - and just put it all back toghther. Hard to start but it did and drove it for 15 minutes in 2nd at 3000 RPM to work out any air in the HPO system. As I was turning on the street to go back to shop - it died and would not restart. Ugh!

THIS IS REALLY DISCOURAGING ME - PLEASE HELP!

Thanks,
Michael
 
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#2 ·
Check the cam sensor when it gets hot it will not work, when it cools down it will work! its like $40-60 for the sensor and its not hard to change!
 
#4 ·
Cam sensor is a rarity on the 6.0. Hook to a scan tool and pull IPR and ICP duty cycles when hot. Im betting the IPR is cooked or dirty
 
#7 ·
BLACK_PSTROKE have you changed out the quick disconect under the turbo housing for the hpop?
No, Not yet. As I understand it this truck is a late build '04 and they changed the design for the better. I hear that it is possible but very rare.
I will keep it in mind.

Today 09:54 AM
2000 7.3 6speed
Does it throw any codes?
I dont know - I dont have a reader and I can't drive it to one.



Today 09:54 AM
Dave
Cam sensor is a rarity on the 6.0. Hook to a scan tool and pull IPR and ICP duty cycles when hot. Im betting the IPR is cooked or dirty
The IPR was out during the O-ring replacement - It did not seem clogged. I will revisit it.
I will try to find a computer to read some codes...


Today 09:53 AM
dirtbikeguy2003
If it is the pump you should have at least 1 year warrenty on what they changed.
Yes, I agree but how do I test it? Where can I get a guage that reads over 3000psi and It would seem to me that I would need to see the pressure when it is hot as that is when the problem arises.


Today 09:40 AM
Rockstardiesel05
Check the cam sensor when it gets hot it will not work, when it cools down it will work! its like $40-60 for the sensor and its not hard to change!

Where is it and how do I test it?

Thanks,
Michael
 
#8 ·
UPDATE - HELP NEEDED ASAP 6.0 dies after running - wont start until cool - help!

Well, I have a scan tool and read all kinds of codes. the one problem I am having is that the batteries are very low due to the hard starting-no starting situation.

We found the code P2291 _ Low ICP During Crank?
Charged batteries used ether to start engine and away we went!!! BUT...when it got hot and we let it drop to idle it would just die......ICP would go from 500psi to 0.
IPR duty cycle is around 30 - 40% - this makes us question the IPR sticking closed.

Tried to restart and ICP psi was a dismal 5psi and IPR was commanded at 85%. IS there a way to test the stupid IPR????????
ON vehicle - Off vehicle? Can we bypass it temporarily?

We do not have a dead head tit to test with air pressure. Can we pleg the IPR hole for testing - would that allow it to start/run?

Thanks for your input.
Michael
 
#9 ·
Early 6.0L's had problems with IPR's. Sounds like one is in your future. Good luck!
 
#12 ·
Yep, Shawn is on it. Typically "crank no start hot" conditions will be related to the dummy plugs under the valve cover. Because yours "dies in flight", plus is a "crank no start hot", then it may be a problem with the ICP sensor.
 
#11 ·
The 05-07 trucks have a bit different high pressure oil setup, so it's more than likely one of these items: standpipes, dummy plugs, STC fitting, IPR regulator, or ICP sensor. You'll need a scanner to watch the ICP pressure and IPR duty cycle when the issue occurs, but more times than not, it will require tearing into the engine to know for sure.
 
#14 ·
This just happened to me got the truck back yesterday I had a 3 hour drive shut it down at the fuel pump filled up and it was a no start played around under the hood for 15 mins and nothing. Called my busy at the shop he said let it sit for 30 to 45 mins and try again so I did and it fired up. It was a high pressure oil leak. Stand pipe, injector 1 and 3 and oil rail. Was out of town so soon as I got it there and we hooked up air it was pissing out from everywhere on the passenger side.
 
#16 ·
And over 7yrs old...
 
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#19 ·
just came across this post...mine started same thing...starter with more of a hiccup while driving, then would intermittently stall. typically she'd start right back up, but increasingly take longer and longer to start up unless she was cold. had codes for the cps and the cks. found the wires from the cps completely bare and touching at the connector and melted all the way to the harness. replaced connector..now idm relay Burnt up..#304 under hood. 05 250....wth..any ideas

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#20 ·
Plus one here...It seems like everyone is pretty mum about what actually was wrong. My '05 was running great with 206k miles on it and I left it running for less than a minute while I ran in and grabbed something. I had just driven about 30 miles so it was up to full operating temperature. I ran back out and it was dead. I tried cranking it several times and it wouldn't start. I also noticed I was not hearing the hum of the fuel pump when I turned the key to the on position. After about 20 minutes, I could hear it humming again when I turned the key and it started up again like nothing happened. I made it home without incident. Next time I took it out the same thing happened but this time I had picked up and OBD scanner and the Torque Pro app. The engine oil temp was pushing close to 240° each time it shut off. ECT was only around 210. Once it cools down, then it starts and runs great until the temp climbs up again and then quits. The temps here have been really hot - high 90s - low 100s.
Anybody know what this could be?
 
#21 ·
I would start looking at the no start hot stickies.

I suspect your stand pipe/dummy plugs, STC fittings may not have been swapped and gave out. Monitor FICMv (should be 42 or greater at all times KOEO, starting, and KOER), IPR should not stay at 85%, and ICP when starting, should get above 500. IPR/ICP indicates leaking high pressure oil. Low FICMv means bad FICM.

A second thing could be your oil cooler sounds like it could possibly be clogged with the ECT EOT delta, but that should be flat level slick at 65 mph.
 
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