6.0 wont start 911 HELP

[TommyBoy#1]

any white, gray, or black smoke? we had my dads truck in the shop i replaced all kinds of **** and the one thing that was wrong didnt throw a code the exaust back pressure sensor the only thing you can do without knowing any codes is take a shot in the dark with sensors

[larz18]

just replaced the icp and still no go. reprogramming back to stock no. No edge chip running sniper

[larz18]

reprogrammed back to stock, still no go. no smoke, just cranks away tries to fire does a small hickup but thats about it. my scanner wont talk with it which doesnt make any sense. works with all my other vehicles too.

[larz18]

now that i just reset the pcm by unpluging the batteries, will all the codes b gone?

[m-chan68]

Originally Posted by larz18

oh ya and it doesnt sound normal when you turn the key on, like when it normally goes through all the cycles of clicks etc. it doesnt do that.
fuel pumps running and the fuel bowl fills up when you turn on the key

That sounds like yet another sure sign of the umpteenth FICM failure by the symptom described above. But to diagnose this requires use of a scan tool that can access live data to monitor FICM_L/FICM_M/FICM_V voltage readings. They should indicate 12.0/48.0/12.0 and remain steady as you crank the engine over. Pay particular attention to FICM_M. If you see voltage dropping off to lower than 46.0 that's a sure sign it needs replaced.

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Last edited by m-chan68 : 06-27-2009 at 06:03 PM.

[m-chan68]

Originally Posted by larz18

the other is 0.2 - while cranking the 3rd goes up to 1.2 volts.
the batteries test at 12.4 volts and 10.8-10.9 while cranking.

Those readings indicate that your ICP sensor is reading as it should at at key-on/engine-off (between 0.18 to 0.25 volts), and that it builds to well above the minimum 0.8 volts needed to fire the engine up.

In a nutshell, ICP pressure is NOT your problem here.

[larz18]

does anyone have the part #'s for all the o-rings i need at the HPOP and the ones for the plugs on the oil rail? Mights as well go through it all and make sure its all good and replace all the common parts that break just after 100k miles. Then i can also do an egr delete while i've got it all apart. Anything else i should be replacing while its all apart?

[bfloyd4445]

Originally Posted by larz18

oh ya and it doesnt sound normal when you turn the key on, like when it normally goes through all the cycles of clicks etc. it doesnt do that.
fuel pumps running and the fuel bowl fills up when you turn on the key

no click?? your not getting any voltage to the starter. maybe the ignition switch went out?

[DBM]

like m-chan68 said your getting enough pressure from the hpop, I wouldn't mess with the orings...if your not getting the injector buzz at key on, then maybe FICM...

[m-chan68]

Originally Posted by larz18

does anyone have the part #'s for all the o-rings i need at the HPOP and the ones for the plugs on the oil rail? Mights as well go through it all and make sure its all good and replace all the common parts that break just after 100k miles. Then i can also do an egr delete while i've got it all apart. Anything else i should be replacing while its all apart?

The dummy rail plugs and the STC fitting outlet parts that commonly fail, are only on 2005 to 2007 model years. 2004 models never fail. You're wasting labour (and money) to take it all apart, chasing high pressure oil system problems that don't appear to exist, by what you're describing. Like already stated in one of my prior posts, look at your FICM voltages and report back your findings, before going any further.