Front Drive Shaft on Lifted truck problems - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 11-25-2013, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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Front Drive Shaft on Lifted truck problems

My truck is a 2005 F250 with an 8" Fabtech lift and 2" body lift on 38" tires. I just changed my FICM and Fuel Pump on my truck because it kept dying on the road on me. Now, ever since my truck has been running, it has had a horrible smell coming from it when driving and even when it sits. I even had a neighbor call our local gas company because they thought it was a natural gas leak. I thought maybe I had some leak from my pump but there is no leak. The smell is coming from my front axle differential/front drive shaft. My front drive shaft where it connects to the front differential is loose. It does up, down, in and out and the smells seems to be coming from there. Ever since I fixed the fuel issue and drive it, I have noticed a slight thump when I start to move from a stop, which I am guessing comes from here. And thinking back, when I have put the truck on 4x4 over the winter, I had a very weird vibrating/buzzing sound.

I also have had a weird snapping/popping sound coming from the front drivers side suspension or wheel hub/bearing area. A good pal, from the forum, said that I might have a bad angle on my front differential and that may be true for the rear also, since years ago I snapped the rear U joint from the rear shaft. Please see the attached pictures (last 2 pics are of the shaft/diff) and let me know how I can fix it. Is it a quick and easy fix or is it something that needs a shop?

Greatly appreciated guys. I hate that I literally just fixed and spent a lot on one thing and have another thing to worry about now and on top of that I need new tires...MONEY PIT that I've considered selling but would feel bad selling it As-Is to someone else and have them deal with the headaches
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2005 Ford F-250 Black/Brown Lariat 4-door/shortbed
8" Fabtech Lift
20" Rims and 38" Tires
LineX Bedliner
MBRP Straight Pipe
AirRaid CAI

Last edited by mad103; 11-25-2013 at 10:21 AM.
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post #2 of 12 Old 11-26-2013, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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Anyone? Please help!


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2005 Ford F-250 Black/Brown Lariat 4-door/shortbed
8" Fabtech Lift
20" Rims and 38" Tires
LineX Bedliner
MBRP Straight Pipe
AirRaid CAI
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post #3 of 12 Old 11-26-2013, 11:35 AM
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Your pinion bearings are shot. The stench you smell is plain non-synthetic gear oil in the differential. Get them changed ASAP before you tear up the ring gear with it. If you dont have the correct tools then a shop is preferred. If no damage to the ring gear and teeth on the pinion its an easy fix. Just unbolt and pop the pionion out, put on new bearings, reuse existing shims, new crush sleeve and your good to go. And clean really good.

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post #4 of 12 Old 11-26-2013, 11:53 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hucorey View Post
Your pinion bearings are shot. The stench you smell is plain non-synthetic gear oil in the differential. Get them changed ASAP before you tear up the ring gear with it. If you dont have the correct tools then a shop is preferred. If no damage to the ring gear and teeth on the pinion its an easy fix. Just unbolt and pop the pionion out, put on new bearings, reuse existing shims, new crush sleeve and your good to go. And clean really good.

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I don't think I have the proper tools. How much do you think a shop would typically charge for something like this? Also, do you know why they could be shot if my truck only has 28k miles on it? Over Sized wheels or the lift or could the diff angle be off?


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2005 Ford F-250 Black/Brown Lariat 4-door/shortbed
8" Fabtech Lift
20" Rims and 38" Tires
LineX Bedliner
MBRP Straight Pipe
AirRaid CAI
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post #5 of 12 Old 11-26-2013, 12:20 PM
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Well not only do you need to fix the seal but you really need to get your pinion angle back in spec otherwise your just going to keep popping shafts and then next would be tranny and motor mounts or worse cracking the tranny case.

I have an 8in fabtech lift on my truck as well, granted its leafs and yours is coils but same deal, i was having 4x4 issues/noises and took it to my local 4x4 shop and when they pulled the front drive shaft off they said it popped out explosively because the dumb PO who put the lift on didnt realize the drive shaft was stretched beyond the allowable lengths of the drive shaft splines and instead of pulling out the seal at the differential it destroyed my tranny and engine mounts.

What i did to fix it is installed a transfer case clock ring, it actually allows the transfer case to be turned so it lowers the drive angle and allows the driveshaft to be in the operable range of the splines.

If you ignore problems like this or do things half arsed then yes your truck will be a money pit...i hope for your sake your bulletproofed already because otherwise you dont know what a money pit is yet

Local Jackass member Pat

Battle cry of every 6.0 owner out there
Quote:
Originally Posted by access_max View Post
With the issues fixed a 6.0 can run circles around a 7.3.
2000 F-350 7.3L ZF6
Standard 7.3 mods
SCT tuned
8" Fabtech lift 13" total
5:13 Gears
46" Goodyear MVTs Military takeoffs
Bushwacker Cut-Out Fender Flares
Ranch Hand front and rear bumper
On-board air W/Semi horns

1995 F-350 7.3L E4OD DRW
Standard 7.3 mods
PHP Hydra W/Tony Wildman tunes
160/0 Injectors
T-500 HPOP
E-fuel Conversion
West Coast mirrors

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post #6 of 12 Old 11-26-2013, 12:23 PM
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Where did you get a 2 inch body lift?

2006 Ford Powerstroke Super Cab 4x4 auto 120K bulletproofed

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post #7 of 12 Old 11-26-2013, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mad103 View Post
I don't think I have the proper tools. How much do you think a shop would typically charge for something like this? Also, do you know why they could be shot if my truck only has 28k miles on it? Over Sized wheels or the lift or could the diff angle be off?
Price could vary significantly. At the vary least $300 (labor, two bearings, sleeve). Most $1500. Just depends in the shape of the rest of the internals once the cover is pulled.

I dont personally know at what height when you need to buy a clock ring for your transfer case to adjust your front driveshaft angle, but you may be close. If your drive shaft was not replaced with the lift, your slip joint is prolly at its extendable limit and would cause the u-joint to fail along and also the pinion bearing near the u-joint failure. Another thing could be you driveshaft being out of phase. It takes a bit to explain over a keyboard so just Google "driveshaft phase". Oversize tires is mainly harder on the transmission more than anything else.

Only 28k miles, wow. Things seize up from not driving it.

For lift info. Contact CT Performance or Carli, etc. on here to help you prevent this from happening again. They are very knowledgeable with our trucks.

Btw. If you need to drive it, remove the front driveshaft just for peace of mind for now.


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post #8 of 12 Old 11-26-2013, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rammstein1224 View Post
Well not only do you need to fix the seal but you really need to get your pinion angle back in spec otherwise your just going to keep popping shafts and then next would be tranny and motor mounts or worse cracking the tranny case.

I have an 8in fabtech lift on my truck as well, granted its leafs and yours is coils but same deal, i was having 4x4 issues/noises and took it to my local 4x4 shop and when they pulled the front drive shaft off they said it popped out explosively because the dumb PO who put the lift on didnt realize the drive shaft was stretched beyond the allowable lengths of the drive shaft splines and instead of pulling out the seal at the differential it destroyed my tranny and engine mounts.

What i did to fix it is installed a transfer case clock ring, it actually allows the transfer case to be turned so it lowers the drive angle and allows the driveshaft to be in the operable range of the splines.

If you ignore problems like this or do things half arsed then yes your truck will be a money pit...i hope for your sake your bulletproofed already because otherwise you dont know what a money pit is yet
What do I need to bulletproof if I get these issues fixed? I am just really considering whether its worth keeping now. I just replaced my fuel pump, ficm and was on the verge of buying new tires...its becoming a pit already

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2005 Ford F-250 Black/Brown Lariat 4-door/shortbed
8" Fabtech Lift
20" Rims and 38" Tires
LineX Bedliner
MBRP Straight Pipe
AirRaid CAI
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post #9 of 12 Old 11-26-2013, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mad103 View Post
What do I need to bulletproof if I get these issues fixed? I am just really considering whether its worth keeping now. I just replaced my fuel pump, ficm and was on the verge of buying new tires...its becoming a pit already

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Do you not know the 6.0 issues? Read this Write Up: Bullet-Proofing the 6.0L PSD.

Local Jackass member Pat

Battle cry of every 6.0 owner out there
Quote:
Originally Posted by access_max View Post
With the issues fixed a 6.0 can run circles around a 7.3.
2000 F-350 7.3L ZF6
Standard 7.3 mods
SCT tuned
8" Fabtech lift 13" total
5:13 Gears
46" Goodyear MVTs Military takeoffs
Bushwacker Cut-Out Fender Flares
Ranch Hand front and rear bumper
On-board air W/Semi horns

1995 F-350 7.3L E4OD DRW
Standard 7.3 mods
PHP Hydra W/Tony Wildman tunes
160/0 Injectors
T-500 HPOP
E-fuel Conversion
West Coast mirrors

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post #10 of 12 Old 11-26-2013, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mad103 View Post
What do I need to bulletproof if I get these issues fixed? I am just really considering whether its worth keeping now. I just replaced my fuel pump, ficm and was on the verge of buying new tires...its becoming a pit already

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If its a daily driver, honestly, drop your truck down at least 4". Its will be cheaper than buying all the other stuff and future maintenance. Plus smaller tires.

Bulletproofing your engine can be done for around $3800. But be very cautious. Someone who is very good with the 6.0 in particular. There maybe people who say "yeah, we can do that" with a grin on their face. Stay away. You being out in Washington I'd contact Riffraff or Alligator performance to find out someone reputable for engine work.

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