Well here is a little tid bit I learned the hard way. A lot of people will probably read this and think no chit, but hey it took me a while to come to this conclusion. The whole mess started three years ago when I needed brake calipers/pads/discs in the rear and was short on time, so I had the dealership do them. I paid my left leg, got in my truck everything was great until last week.
My truck '07 f250 sits an awful lot due to work and having a company vehicle, so lucky me the right rear brake locked up on me. No biggie I just stopped at my local Advanced Auto on my way home from Texas, got a replacement some DOT 3 and figured life would be great. While bleeding I kept thinking to myself man this looks weird, but the caliper looked like and was installed the same way the other side was which was done at the dealer ship.
Enter soft pedal syndrome. So after bleeding no kidding a gallon of fluid from all corners with a vacuum bleeder and still having the same problem, time to dig deeper. I will spare the details as this is already getting to be a long read (if anyone has made it this far) but, new parts included: 1 master cylinder, 1 break fluid pressure sensor which I broke, 1 hydroboost , 1 rear caliper from autozone.
The solution, BRAKE BLEEDER SCREWS ALWAYS GO AT THE TOP
. As luck would have it the dealership had put the calipers on reverse, I copied them not thinking clearly, and both Advance and Autozone had given me the wrong side as far as I can tell.
So I felt pretty dumb especially after the years spent in the gas patch explaining to people how gas or air rises up through fluid. (Easy concept often overlooked as I did. If you don't believe me fill your bathtub up and fart and tell me where the bubbles go.)
Moral of the story, no matter how hard you try a caliper will never bleed out if the bleeder is on the bottom.