Rear U Joints are shot - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 06-18-2013, 07:41 AM Thread Starter
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Rear U Joints are shot

So my rear U Joint by the rear end is shot. my question is should i replace both U Joints on the rear drive shaft or just the bad one. Also is there a brand that is better than others? i would like a more "HD" version but not a fortune either. I'd also like to know what else i should do while im down there.

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07 F250 Lariat ECSB bed FX4 6.0
leveling kit, DDM HID's
XD Strike 17x9 -24 offset 295/70/17 Hankook ATm
fox shocks & fox dual steering stabilizer kit
4in. straight pipe, Riff Raff boots, Beans sump
ARP's, Tuned, Deleted
coolant filter, bluespring, CAI
6.4 Banjo Bolts, BPD FICM
Alpine Head unit, 4 Hertz 140W door speakers, 2 rockford fosgate 10's, kenwood amps.

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post #2 of 11 Old 06-18-2013, 08:04 AM Thread Starter
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there is about an 1/8 inch or so of play in it to the point that driving is pretty much out of the question i would like to order parts today and take it apart tomorrow morning and have it back running thursday or friday any advice is appreciated


07 F250 Lariat ECSB bed FX4 6.0
leveling kit, DDM HID's
XD Strike 17x9 -24 offset 295/70/17 Hankook ATm
fox shocks & fox dual steering stabilizer kit
4in. straight pipe, Riff Raff boots, Beans sump
ARP's, Tuned, Deleted
coolant filter, bluespring, CAI
6.4 Banjo Bolts, BPD FICM
Alpine Head unit, 4 Hertz 140W door speakers, 2 rockford fosgate 10's, kenwood amps.

More pics in profile.
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post #3 of 11 Old 06-18-2013, 08:33 AM
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Better to do them both while you have the shaft out. Mr. Murphy will probably require you to do the other one soon anyways. As far as brand, no preference here.

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post #4 of 11 Old 06-18-2013, 08:42 AM
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I will only use SPICER, I'd do both since your already pulling the driveshaft and check the carrier bearing if you have one..


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post #5 of 11 Old 06-18-2013, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
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i dont have one but it looks like ill be doing both. the cost of the joint is pretty cheap.


07 F250 Lariat ECSB bed FX4 6.0
leveling kit, DDM HID's
XD Strike 17x9 -24 offset 295/70/17 Hankook ATm
fox shocks & fox dual steering stabilizer kit
4in. straight pipe, Riff Raff boots, Beans sump
ARP's, Tuned, Deleted
coolant filter, bluespring, CAI
6.4 Banjo Bolts, BPD FICM
Alpine Head unit, 4 Hertz 140W door speakers, 2 rockford fosgate 10's, kenwood amps.

More pics in profile.
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post #6 of 11 Old 06-20-2013, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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well broke the snap ring joint on the flange so i ended up getting frustrated and got new drive shaft with fresh balancing new spicer HD U Joints and everything with a fresh paint job after installation what a difference the truck drives totally different. super smooth from 0-120 ( didnt go past 120 but im sure its still smooth ) it also shifts way different than before ( much better ) and the RPMs even seem to be running a little different but dont effect the drive ability or or anything the rpms dont drop down when you let off the pedal like before they just follow the speed of the truck. i do know that the said the slip yoke on the old drive shaft was practically out of grease. they gave me a core charge on the old one as they are gonna rebuild it so it didnt even cost me a fortune. solved all my vibration issues. thanks for the advice on the spicer joints.


07 F250 Lariat ECSB bed FX4 6.0
leveling kit, DDM HID's
XD Strike 17x9 -24 offset 295/70/17 Hankook ATm
fox shocks & fox dual steering stabilizer kit
4in. straight pipe, Riff Raff boots, Beans sump
ARP's, Tuned, Deleted
coolant filter, bluespring, CAI
6.4 Banjo Bolts, BPD FICM
Alpine Head unit, 4 Hertz 140W door speakers, 2 rockford fosgate 10's, kenwood amps.

More pics in profile.
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post #7 of 11 Old 06-20-2013, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyTractorsSexy View Post
well broke the snap ring joint on the flange so i ended up getting frustrated and got new drive shaft with fresh balancing new spicer HD U Joints and everything with a fresh paint job after installation what a difference the truck drives totally different. super smooth from 0-120 ( didnt go past 120 but im sure its still smooth ) it also shifts way different than before ( much better ) and the RPMs even seem to be running a little different but dont effect the drive ability or or anything the rpms dont drop down when you let off the pedal like before they just follow the speed of the truck. i do know that the said the slip yoke on the old drive shaft was practically out of grease. they gave me a core charge on the old one as they are gonna rebuild it so it didnt even cost me a fortune. solved all my vibration issues. thanks for the advice on the spicer joints.


Glad you got it WELL taken care of and didn;t take a beating over the price!

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post #8 of 11 Old 06-20-2013, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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honest to god it cost me about 300 dollars lol the job quoted to just get u joints done at a shop was 200 so for 100 more dollars i got upgraded u joints fresh slip yoke and perfectly balanced shaft from a local company that specializes in drive lines. i was like ahh what the hell why not. they called mine new but im sure it was one they rebuilt just like what they are gonna do to mine haha but it was freshly painted and so nice looking ill take new as an answer.


07 F250 Lariat ECSB bed FX4 6.0
leveling kit, DDM HID's
XD Strike 17x9 -24 offset 295/70/17 Hankook ATm
fox shocks & fox dual steering stabilizer kit
4in. straight pipe, Riff Raff boots, Beans sump
ARP's, Tuned, Deleted
coolant filter, bluespring, CAI
6.4 Banjo Bolts, BPD FICM
Alpine Head unit, 4 Hertz 140W door speakers, 2 rockford fosgate 10's, kenwood amps.

More pics in profile.
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post #9 of 11 Old 06-20-2013, 04:33 PM
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300 for a "new" driveshaft with joints is a great price in my opinion. Good deal!

2009 Subaru WRX Premium
Type RS BOV
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Had to park it with some real diesel muscle....
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post #10 of 11 Old 06-20-2013, 04:44 PM
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Damn that does sound like a good deal

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