U joint bad - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 05-06-2013, 07:30 AM Thread Starter
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U joint bad

I discovered I have a bad U joint on the passinger side front axle, I have 170,000 mile on my truck and have been told with that mileage to replace u joints, ball joints,and bearing assembly on both sides! does everyone agree, and how much should that cost for parts, how difficult a job is it ? Truck is an 05 and I think while doing this I'll replace the auto hubs with manual ?

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post #2 of 11 Old 05-07-2013, 04:08 AM Thread Starter
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I've been pricing the bearing assmeblies Wew !!! anyone know where the best place to order them from ?
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post #3 of 11 Old 05-07-2013, 06:46 AM
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Well, with the auto hubs, I'd recommend staying with Motorcraft/FordMoCo parts. I've used others and had them fail prematurely. It does get pricey though with 2 new hubs, U-Joints, balls joints and you'll also need a new "Inner Axle Seal" I think its called. It fits into the steering knuckle on either side and has a "thrust" washer between the hub assy. That's how the "auto" works. Around here they're like $30/ea. I'm not sure if you can buy a less expensive assembly if you plan on using Manual lockers. I installed my Warns with the hub assy in place. Just blocked off my vacuum lines so I didn't have a leak and run it just like any other manual locker on the road now.

2004 F250 XLT 6" lift, 37" tires, zoodad, T6,
edge cs, k&n, revx, warn lockers, rhino bars
future: coolant filter, headstuds, bluespring, 4" turboback, tires..dam these tires

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post #4 of 11 Old 05-07-2013, 07:06 AM
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Just did my drivers side wheel bearing at $400 for the part and ordered 2 brand new Ford hubs at $290. Wheel bearing alone will take about 1.5 hrs but you will need to go deeper to pull the axle.

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post #5 of 11 Old 05-07-2013, 07:11 AM
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In my experience working on these hubs..get yourself a nice Slide Hammer with the axle puller kit. I think I rented mine from autozone or oreilys last time. And that Seal behind the hub assy is a PITA. I usually use a brass punch and beat the crap out of it..for awhile. Then attach the slide hammer and give it a tug or 2..axle will come out and it will be like replacing U-Joints on a drive shaft. If you don't have a seal installer..or a press, I'd recommend taking your steering knuckles with the new seals to a ford dealer and pay them a few bucks to press them in for you. I installed 1 incorrectly once..and my new hub assembly only lasted a few months. Other than that seal, its a very easy job though, expensive, but easy.

2004 F250 XLT 6" lift, 37" tires, zoodad, T6,
edge cs, k&n, revx, warn lockers, rhino bars
future: coolant filter, headstuds, bluespring, 4" turboback, tires..dam these tires

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post #6 of 11 Old 05-07-2013, 07:27 AM
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OEM is Timken

Auto zone / Amazon Etc sell them

The large knuckle seal is like 5o bucks and takes a special driver to install
the " inner axle seal is way inside the axle tube near the differential

it would be nice to change them also but those are a little challenging for a novice.

they do not sell a manual hubs other than the OEM ( they look identical ) for 03-07 without doing a unit bearing conversion ( that I have seen ) but since your hubs are made by warn and they have a manual option you don't need to swap them if you were to want a just manual option and did away with the vacuum select

for all other parts like ball joints / u joints make sure you get servicable units with zerk fittings

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post #7 of 11 Old 05-07-2013, 07:37 AM
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I thought I had the name of that seal wrong. Just glad I explained its location well enough for you to realize which one I meant. My Warns only took about 15 minutes total to install. I took out the OEM vacuum hubs, disconnected the vacuum lines, plugged them up and secured them to my frame. Then I installed the Warn lockers with a pair of pliers and an allen key. Have not had a problem with them living in a snow belt in NY. Just have to climb out of the truck to engage/disengage 4-wheel drive instead of using my ESOF

2004 F250 XLT 6" lift, 37" tires, zoodad, T6,
edge cs, k&n, revx, warn lockers, rhino bars
future: coolant filter, headstuds, bluespring, 4" turboback, tires..dam these tires

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post #8 of 11 Old 05-07-2013, 07:41 AM
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Not sure what year the op has looks like o5 so I think he has the larger later knuckle seal and internals
but 05-07 your only option is OEM hubs however they have a manual version but it's the same hub without the internal diaphragm and external lettering ( no auto position) so not worth the money

curious what hub you found ? for the 04 ?

the 03-04 knuckle seal is harder to install than the 05-07 since the early one needs set to the proper depth and the later just bottoms out

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post #9 of 11 Old 05-07-2013, 07:44 AM
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ohh that knuckle seal can be a pain

there is a trick to try and save it using a wood block but I just air chiseled mine out from the back since it was leaking

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post #10 of 11 Old 05-07-2013, 07:56 AM
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The Warn part number I have is 11690. To get it to fit perfectly, I just had the bend the retaining clip with pliers. They have premium ones that are built a bit better that install the same way, but my auto store didn't have them. And my driver side OEM hub fell apart when I was trying to lock it into manual during a snowstorm. Needed new ones ASAP.

Everytime I replaced my knuckle seal its been because the hub assy has blown. Tore up the seal and everything around it..so I just beat the crap out of it until it pops out.

2004 F250 XLT 6" lift, 37" tires, zoodad, T6,
edge cs, k&n, revx, warn lockers, rhino bars
future: coolant filter, headstuds, bluespring, 4" turboback, tires..dam these tires

Marines 2004-2009
Army 2009-2013

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