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post #1 of 6 Old 04-19-2013, 07:13 AM Thread Starter
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4x4 question

My shift on the fly deal isn't working with the hubs in the auto position, light comes on and my heat will still blow wherever I want it to.

I can put the hubs in lock position and then it will switch in and out of 4wd with the switch...so is it ok to have the hubs locked and drive in 2wd short distances?

Also any clue to my issue to fix this?

2003 F350 CCSB SRW
114k miles, ARP head studs, OEM gaskets, Blue Spring Update, EGR delete...valve still plugged in, 4" off turbo straight back, CAT coolant, Sinsiter Coolant Filter, Coolant Bypass/Recirculation, Gearhead Tunes SRL+ Daily Driver, Dashboss Monitoring w/egt and fuel pressure,Resurfaced head with new valves and guides,Banks Cold Air Intake, 04 Turbo Freshly Cleaned
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post #2 of 6 Old 04-19-2013, 08:24 AM
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Thats fine, u can drive as far as you want, the only reason to not have your hubs locked is fuel economy and wear of you front axle parts. When you lock the hubs but not the transfer case it just means the front axle is spinning as you drive and turning the front drive shaft, but since the transfer case isnt engaged its just meaninglessly spinning. Its just like guys like me who only have manual hubs. we leave it unlocked unless we know theres gonna be some hairy situations we will get out and lock them but leave the t-case in 2wd until we need the 4x4.

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post #3 of 6 Old 04-19-2013, 08:41 AM
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Agreed. But to fix the issue might have something going on with the vacuum supply to front hubs might check that or could be the solinod
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post #4 of 6 Old 04-19-2013, 10:07 AM
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If your heat is still working properly and not reverting to "defrost" then your vacuum pump is working fine, so the problem is most likely at your hubs.

It could be the hub seals, I had one go bad with only 30k mi. on the truck.
or it could be a leak in one of the vacuum hoses going from either hub up to the vacuum solenoid on the passenger side fender.

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post #5 of 6 Old 04-19-2013, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregsSD View Post
If your heat is still working properly and not reverting to "defrost" then your vacuum pump is working fine, so the problem is most likely at your hubs.

It could be the hub seals, I had one go bad with only 30k mi. on the truck.
or it could be a leak in one of the vacuum hoses going from either hub up to the vacuum solenoid on the passenger side fender.
Thanks guys, good to know...

I guess once its not slopppy slushy snow junk here in MN I'll start with checking the vacuum hoses for leakes or holes.

Im guessing the solenoid is for the vacuum pump and if either of those are bad your heat blows out the defrost which my heat Does Not revert to.

So im pretty much narrowed down to a leak in the line from pump to hub or something wrong with hub(s)?

2003 F350 CCSB SRW
114k miles, ARP head studs, OEM gaskets, Blue Spring Update, EGR delete...valve still plugged in, 4" off turbo straight back, CAT coolant, Sinsiter Coolant Filter, Coolant Bypass/Recirculation, Gearhead Tunes SRL+ Daily Driver, Dashboss Monitoring w/egt and fuel pressure,Resurfaced head with new valves and guides,Banks Cold Air Intake, 04 Turbo Freshly Cleaned
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post #6 of 6 Old 04-25-2013, 06:59 AM
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Pretty much. Rubber lines might've gone bad or may have got themselves disconnected from snow and such. Otherwise there's a plastic disc inside the hub that looks like a cross that the vacuum solenoid pulsates to engage you ESOF. I've had them crack and get worn to the point the last time they broke, I switched over to Warn Manual Lockers and disconnected my vacuum lines and plugged them so they didn't interfere anymore

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