Tie rods Popping. Lots of play - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

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post #1 of 15 Old 07-16-2012, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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Question Tie rods Popping. Lots of play

Well....I noticed a popping/thud sound under my floor board at low speeds. Got under the truck and I can easily move both tie rods up and down (making the same thud sound while driving).

So I've got the new ones (MOOG) and plan on replacing tomorrow morning (when it's not 100+ degrees).

I'm hoping nothing else is worn but I will check.

Any tips/torque specs/ and insight would be greatly appreciated.

Damon
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post #2 of 15 Old 07-16-2012, 06:30 PM
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Torque specs


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SCT, no studs...yet, Dual OEM intake air filter housings, Banks intercooler & intake elbow, Banks exhaust system, Windrunner ported intake manifold, Bullet Proof Diesel remote oil cooler & thermostat, AirDog2 (plus a couple spares), Power steering filter (Amsoil dual-bypass), MagTec deep ATF pan, Electric oil pre-lub pump, Dakota Digital gauges.
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post #3 of 15 Old 07-16-2012, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks term3.

I should have mentioned I have a 06 f250 4x4.

Will the torque specs you sent be the same for me?
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post #4 of 15 Old 07-17-2012, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
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Done...got the new tie rods in this morning (took about two hours) and rotated the tires.

nothing to crazy but some tips to mentioned that worked for me with what i had;
-after loosening both tie rods, remove the passenger side but leave the drivers side attached.
-swing the entire assembly out and away from the truck (leaving the drivers side attached)
-with my big a** pipe wrench and Big a$$ crescent wrench remove the passenger side tie rod. Leaving the drivers side attached gives you leverage if you don't have a vise. I also used a BFH to whack on the crescent wrench, this helped to break it free.
-after that it was a matter of unscrewing both side and replacing with new ones.
-NOTE; I took several measurements of the old one prior to disassembly. This will help get your new set up close enough to drive to an alignment shop. I measured from Tie rod center to Tie rod center and a separate measurements of driver/passenger Tie rod center to the collar of the Tie rod bar. This help me determine how for to screw each side in and then check to overall length.
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post #5 of 15 Old 08-21-2012, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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Well....

my new tie rods suck again.....they are making the same "thud" sound while going over bumps. I got under the truck and I am able to move the tie rod bar (with my own hand) up and down....

After I replaced them, I got a alignment (by ford) with in 5 miles of installing the new ones.

The truck drove better...no "thud" sounds, everything seemed tight.

After about two weeks of daily (street) driving, the "thuds" returned. I got under the truck and was able to move the tie rods up and down like before.

What gives...? why would my truck destroy a brand new set of tie rods with in a week?

Last edited by new2fossil; 08-23-2012 at 05:08 AM.
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post #6 of 15 Old 08-22-2012, 07:34 PM
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Have you tried looking at real off-road hard part sites to see if there is something stronger?


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SCT, no studs...yet, Dual OEM intake air filter housings, Banks intercooler & intake elbow, Banks exhaust system, Windrunner ported intake manifold, Bullet Proof Diesel remote oil cooler & thermostat, AirDog2 (plus a couple spares), Power steering filter (Amsoil dual-bypass), MagTec deep ATF pan, Electric oil pre-lub pump, Dakota Digital gauges.
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post #7 of 15 Old 08-23-2012, 04:53 AM Thread Starter
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UPDATE

Quote:
Originally Posted by Term3 View Post
Have you tried looking at real off-road hard part sites to see if there is something stronger?


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I thought about that, but I don't now of any reputable companies.

UPDATE:
Last night I found a thread on this site that got me looking for other possible issues with my front end.

I found that my front HUBS/bearings might be bad. The reason; I can move either of my front axle shaft up and down with my hand right at the U-joint. The U-joints are fine, there is zero play in the U-joint. However, there is at least a 3/8" movement in play from full up to full down.

The play seems to be in the outer axle stub shaft that goes into the hub bearing. And it's the cause of the "thuds" while going over bumps.

Is that normal? I'm thinking NO.....

I

“Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe.”
― Albert Einstein

2006 F250-Sinister coolant filter, Amsoil bypass oil filter, CTS Edge, 5" MBRP exhaust (off road), blue spring....

Last edited by new2fossil; 08-23-2012 at 05:09 AM.
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post #8 of 15 Old 08-23-2012, 05:00 AM
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Time for an alignment!!



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post #9 of 15 Old 08-23-2012, 05:07 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRobenator View Post
Time for an alignment!!
Not sure what you mean by this....But I just got an alignment. I got my alignment within 5 miles of replacing my tie rod ends.

“Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe.”
― Albert Einstein

2006 F250-Sinister coolant filter, Amsoil bypass oil filter, CTS Edge, 5" MBRP exhaust (off road), blue spring....
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post #10 of 15 Old 08-23-2012, 08:19 AM
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So you grab the hub and it moves up and down 3/8"? Have you checked your ball joints?

SCT, no studs...yet, Dual OEM intake air filter housings, Banks intercooler & intake elbow, Banks exhaust system, Windrunner ported intake manifold, Bullet Proof Diesel remote oil cooler & thermostat, AirDog2 (plus a couple spares), Power steering filter (Amsoil dual-bypass), MagTec deep ATF pan, Electric oil pre-lub pump, Dakota Digital gauges.
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