ABS Light - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 6 Old 05-30-2012, 02:32 AM Thread Starter
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ABS Light

I know this is a general question and I am sure there are many possilities. But I am going to ask anyway. Today on my way home from work my ABS light came on and is staying on. It isn't flashing. About 2 months ago I had new brakes, calipers, rotors ect done to the truck, also had the brake system flushed. I figure it has got to be something simple, just not sure where to start looking. Any ideas on a good place to begin? It is a 2004 F-250 HD Edition with 100k. Thanks.
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post #2 of 6 Old 06-10-2012, 12:50 PM
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hope this helps, i got it from ALLDATAdiy.com Leading Source of Factory Automotive Repair Information well worth the membership fee.

TSB 07-9-8



2005-2007 F-Super Duty

This article supersedes TSB 06-7-6 to update the vehicle model years.

Some 2005-2007 F-Super Duty vehicles may exhibit an ABS light on and possible diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) C1175, C1236, P0500 and/or P0503. This condition may be due to faulty vehicle wiring, a failed wheel speed sensor or vehicle speed sensor (VSS) tone ring damage inside the rear differential case. The base brake system will continue to function as normal.

Follow appropriate Service Procedure based on DTC.


P0500 And/Or P0503

P0500/0503 is set by the PCM when the VSS signal from the ABS module is missing. If the vehicle has DTC P0500/P0503 in the PCM, and the vehicle has ABS DTCs, check ground 105 and the ABS fuse (mini fuse # 11).


If the vehicle has only DTC C1175 in the ABS module it is most likely caused by a wiring concern or a faulty sensor.

1. Inspect the vehicle wiring for damage beginning at the rear wheel speed sensor connector and ending at the ABS module. Damage may be at any point in the wiring.

2. Inspect for pinched looms, frayed terminal connections, loose pins, etc.

3. Pay special attention to the wiring along the frame (especially if the vehicle has been modified from a body builder), and near the fuel tank.

4. The speed sensor wiring begins at the rear axle and is routed along the frame rail on the left side of the vehicle. It then branches off at C140 (gas C133), which is located beneath the master cylinder. The wiring then goes to C455 at the ABS module.

5. The wiring should not be loose, especially near the rear wheel speed sensor. Ensure that the wiring is properly retained and routed to eliminate intermittent speed signals.


6. Repair wiring as necessary.

7. If no concerns are found in the wiring, replace the sensor.

C1175 AND C1236

If the vehicle has DTC C1236 AND C1175 in the ABS module, check the vehicle wiring per the C1175 procedure. If there is a hard or intermittent wiring fault, the current may at times be high or low causing a C1175. A wiring concern may also cause noise in the circuit that can be interpreted by the module as an erratic speed signal, which will set the C1236.

If no wiring issue is found, follow the C1236 procedure.


1. If the vehicle has DTC C1236 in the ABS module, a wiring concern may exist that is severe enough to interrupt the signal, but not severe enough to totally open/short the circuit. Inspect the sensor connector on the 14405 harness for signs of water trapped in the strain relief elbow, corrosion, or broken/cracked connector. Install a new pigtail if necessary (See Pigtail Installation Procedure).

2. Ensure that the harness is properly retained and routed to eliminate intermittent speed signals.

3. Add dielectric grease to the connector.

4. If only DTC C1236 exists, and it occurs only under acceleration or towing, check for loose carrier bolts.

5. If no wiring concerns are present check the tone ring through the wheel speed sensor bore for damage, and for proper gap between the tone ring and ring gear.

6. Use a feeler gage to confirm gap between tone ring and ring gear is no larger than 0.010". Check the gap at multiple locations around the tone ring.

a. If gap is larger than 0.010", remove the axle cover and use suitable punch/driver to carefully "tap" tone ring back against ring gear. Recheck with feeler gage.

b. Examine each tooth of the tone wheel for damage. Even a small nick can cause a C1236 (Figure 1).

7. If no tone wheel issues are found, replace the wheel speed sensor.

Pigtail Installation

1. Disconnect the battery.

2. Disconnect the damaged connector from the axle.

3. Cut wiring near the rear wheel sensor takeout from 14405 harness.

4. Splice in pigtail (pigtail includes heat shrink).

5. Cover heat shrink with tubing.

6. Route the two (2) retainers of the pigtail to park brake cable.


7. Plug in connector to rear wheel sensor.

8. Check for functionality.
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post #3 of 6 Old 01-29-2016, 04:18 PM
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Thanks for the post on the TSB. I just had my ABS light come on today while towing a loaded trailer. I noticed that when stopping the trailer brake controller was not engaging as much as usual. I could manually operate the trailer brake just fine.

It was still slowing the trailer but not as much even with the brake controller cranked to 10. I haven't had the opportunity to look further into the matter yet.
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post #4 of 6 Old 02-26-2016, 10:00 PM
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First I'd like say, I understand this thread is old, I'm only posting here because this is one of the fist threads that populates with a Google search of "Ford F250 abs light P0500 code". After what seemed like 1000's of forum threads and countless hours of tracing wires and replacing sensors, I finally fixed my ABS light/no speedometer/DTC P0500. I would just like to give feedback on this issue just in case it can help someone else experiencing the same symptoms.

My ABS light/speedometer was an intermittent problem, working when it wanted and not working the other half. After replacing the VSS/ABS sensor on the rear differential, replacing the pigtail connector, and testing the wires between the sensor and the ABS module for weeks I had almost given up. I found this thread breaking down what to check for each given. I had check my fuse multiple times, along with the ABS module ground found near the radiator mount. Well today I decided to give it another shot.

My ABS fuse (mini fuse 11 with the fuse box in the engine bay) was not making a good connection within the fuse block. After checking this fuse multiple times and even replacing it with brand new 10amp fuses, I never paid attention to how well it seated within the fuse block. I slightly bent the fuse prongs in opposite directions creating a much better connection. Immediate results after starting my truck. Code is gone, no ABS light, and my speedometer works as advertised. I'll finally sleep better tonight knowing that I won't see an ABS in the morning when I get in my truck!

I know this isn't the "fix all" if other members are having these same symptoms, but definitely something to look into. I spent hours troubleshooting something so easy to overlook.

I'll close this post, my first post to this forum (not new to forums by any means, just this one), with a big thank you to all the knowledge that resides here, many hours have been spent reading through the posts within this site that have been very educational.
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post #5 of 6 Old 02-27-2016, 04:06 AM
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I had the same issue with my passenger side headlight fuse. Ended up using a pick to bend the block prongs back in to position.

When is BPD going to fix this problem with a Bulletproof fuse block?


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post #6 of 6 Old 04-18-2016, 03:13 PM
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Cool quick fix

VSS intermittent issues have been plaguing my 2005 super duty for months. Finally got a hard failure. Had changed the sensor in the rear end with not change in symptoms. The fuse was the issue, without finally finding this post I am not sure how far I would have gone chasing this thing. Thanks a bunch............
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