Tackling ball joints & tie rods, what else at that time? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 36 Old 12-14-2011, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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Front suspension/steering rebuild *EDIT* part numbers added, and pics

SCROLL DOWN FOR PART NUMBERS

I just ordered all 4 Moog ball joints and 2 Moog tie rods from Rockauto.com.

I have a decent break from work next week, and I have room in my heated shop. I plan to:

-replace all 4 ball joints
-replace outer tie rods
-paint steering knuckles
-paint front calipers
-replace shocks (Sky Jacker)
-install 2.5" leveling kit (front spring spacers, track bar brackets, rear blocks)
-drop truck off for alignment, and have 4 new 35" Kuhmos installed
-new HFCM
-oil change

What else is easily accessible at this time, that I should be replacing?

Sway bar links?
Any hardware I should pick up that will probably break/seized/etc?
The leveling kit came with a lot of new hardware.

TIA



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Last edited by cRaZy8; 12-31-2011 at 10:44 AM.
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post #2 of 36 Old 12-14-2011, 07:07 PM
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I'd be doin front diff u-joints if you haven't already.... if it's 4x4

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post #3 of 36 Old 12-14-2011, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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Yup, its a 4x4. Also, its got 86,000 miles on the clock.

Good call, Ill be adding those to the list.



MTW Stg2
BPD FICM
BPD Cooler
BPD WP
ARP
Yukon Locker
4.30's
Mishimoto Rad.
S&B
EGR Del.
IDP's long Y
Coolant Filter
EC1
Edge CTS2
SCT X3
FICM Tuner
Jugger Pump w/DIY RR
Fuel PSI Gauge
18" & 35's
Bilstein 2.5"
Trac. Bars
CCV Mod
2013 Bed/Gate
DC Power Alt.
Powerstops

USCG 50GT MMC
Yamaha Outboard Master Tech
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post #4 of 36 Old 12-14-2011, 07:18 PM
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Rog. Since it's 4x4 you may also look into inner axle seals since you'll have the shafts out. If/when they go out your vacuum shift 4bi won't work. Also good time to change diff fluid too. You have that coming up anyway. Man... I'm good at spending your money. lol

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post #5 of 36 Old 12-14-2011, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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I just did F & R diff, tranny, and transfer case fluids about 5k miles ago.

No worries. If Im tearing it this far down, no reason not to change out the simple **** while its apart. I have my F250 5.4L work truck to drive while my truck is apart. Also, my shop is closed for 2.5 weeks for Xmas. This is the time of year I do all my major maintenance.

Im getting all this done now, so I can tackle my new fuel system on the next tear down before winter ends (pump, regulator, injectors, lines etc.).



MTW Stg2
BPD FICM
BPD Cooler
BPD WP
ARP
Yukon Locker
4.30's
Mishimoto Rad.
S&B
EGR Del.
IDP's long Y
Coolant Filter
EC1
Edge CTS2
SCT X3
FICM Tuner
Jugger Pump w/DIY RR
Fuel PSI Gauge
18" & 35's
Bilstein 2.5"
Trac. Bars
CCV Mod
2013 Bed/Gate
DC Power Alt.
Powerstops

USCG 50GT MMC
Yamaha Outboard Master Tech
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post #6 of 36 Old 12-14-2011, 07:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cRaZy8 View Post
I just ordered all 4 Moog ball joints and 2 Moog tie rods from Rockauto.com.

I have a decent break from work next week, and I have room in my heated shop. I plan to:

-replace all 4 ball joints
-replace outer tie rods
-paint steering knuckles
-paint front calipers
-replace shocks (Sky Jacker)
-install 2.5" leveling kit (front spring spacers, track bar brackets, rear blocks)
-drop truck off for alignment, and have 4 new 35" Kuhmos installed
-new HFCM
-oil change

What else is easily accessible at this time, that I should be replacing?

Sway bar links?
Any hardware I should pick up that will probably break/seized/etc?
The leveling kit came with a lot of new hardware.

TIA
Why a new HFCM?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 7.34ever View Post
Rog. Since it's 4x4 you may also look into inner axle seals since you'll have the shafts out. If/when they go out your vacuum shift 4bi won't work. Also good time to change diff fluid too. You have that coming up anyway. Man... I'm good at spending your money. lol
Inner axle seals won't keep the 4x4 from working. The big seal in the knuckle and the 0-rings will though.

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post #7 of 36 Old 12-14-2011, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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My fuel pressure drops on the highway under a load from 60psi down to about 45/50psi. I bought an HFCM at the beginning of the summer to keep in the truck (I tow long distance, didnt want to get stuck, and its finally showing its colors).

What seals/o-rings are you talking about? I didnt see those on Rockauto. I thought I looked through everything on the drivetrain, suspension, and brake systems?

I already have over $1000 in parts on my shelf at work, nows the time to get it done right...........



MTW Stg2
BPD FICM
BPD Cooler
BPD WP
ARP
Yukon Locker
4.30's
Mishimoto Rad.
S&B
EGR Del.
IDP's long Y
Coolant Filter
EC1
Edge CTS2
SCT X3
FICM Tuner
Jugger Pump w/DIY RR
Fuel PSI Gauge
18" & 35's
Bilstein 2.5"
Trac. Bars
CCV Mod
2013 Bed/Gate
DC Power Alt.
Powerstops

USCG 50GT MMC
Yamaha Outboard Master Tech
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post #8 of 36 Old 12-14-2011, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cRaZy8 View Post
My fuel pressure drops on the highway under a load from 60psi down to about 45/50psi. I bought an HFCM at the beginning of the summer to keep in the truck (I tow long distance, didnt want to get stuck, and its finally showing its colors).

What seals/o-rings are you talking about? I didnt see those on Rockauto. I thought I looked through everything on the drivetrain, suspension, and brake systems?

I already have over $1000 in parts on my shelf at work, nows the time to get it done right...........
There is a vacuum seal that is pressed onto the stub shaft and pressed into the knuckle. There is also an o-ring that goes around the hub assembly and an o-ring that goes around the lockout. I'll try to find part numbers.

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post #9 of 36 Old 12-14-2011, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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Are these the numbers?

knuckle seal 5C3Z-3254-AA
wheel bearing o-ring 5C3Z-4A322-AA
axle dust seal AC3Z-1S175-A



MTW Stg2
BPD FICM
BPD Cooler
BPD WP
ARP
Yukon Locker
4.30's
Mishimoto Rad.
S&B
EGR Del.
IDP's long Y
Coolant Filter
EC1
Edge CTS2
SCT X3
FICM Tuner
Jugger Pump w/DIY RR
Fuel PSI Gauge
18" & 35's
Bilstein 2.5"
Trac. Bars
CCV Mod
2013 Bed/Gate
DC Power Alt.
Powerstops

USCG 50GT MMC
Yamaha Outboard Master Tech
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post #10 of 36 Old 12-14-2011, 07:51 PM
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Yup that's right. Oops

How are the wheel bearings on it? I had one leaking when I put gears in almost 2 years ago at 98k. I know they're expensive but....

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