Gota replace Balljoints, what brand? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 15 Old 07-26-2011, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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Gota replace Balljoints, what brand?

What brand do you guys replace your ball joints with? I usually go with napa stuff but they're pretty exspensive, any brand that stands out from the crowd?

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post #2 of 15 Old 07-26-2011, 07:55 PM
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What brand do you guys replace your ball joints with? I usually go with napa stuff but they're pretty exspensive, any brand that stands out from the crowd?
i just used Ford motorcraft, the old ones lasted 150k. I tell you what though..it was hell, and make sure you get that wheel knuckle seal in properly, or else you will have leaks with your hubs. My local ford dealer let me use theirs for a $400 core charge. Make sure to use a very long pry bar to get the wheel knuckle seal/ axle shaft out. If you accidentally bend the brake rotor shield while pulling the hub off, there will be a nasty scraping sound, just make sure its straight before you re-install it. The lower ball joints need a ratchet wrench (don't remember the size) and a allen key to hold the joint from moving. I used a crescent and it was a b**** it took forever. That is probably more than you wanted to know, but those are some key things I wish someone would have told me when I did it! There are some greaseable ball joints made by Moog that people use, as the Fords are sealed and don't use grease. Take your time, and happy wrenching

Morgan

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post #3 of 15 Old 07-26-2011, 08:01 PM
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I just bought both upper and lower for the just the passenger side from O'Reilly's. I bought the house brand with lifetime warranty for $50 for both. My local tire shop installed them for me for $120. There is no way I would have tried to do it myself with them willing to do it that cheap.

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post #4 of 15 Old 07-26-2011, 08:10 PM
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I just bought both upper and lower for the just the passenger side from O'Reilly's. I bought the house brand with lifetime warranty for $50 for both. My local tire shop installed them for me for $120. There is no way I would have tried to do it myself with them willing to do it that cheap.
What?!?! that doesn't sound right... that is way too cheap, doing ball joints on a solid front axle is a PITA. I would double check everything lol some shops charge $120 hourly rate.. isn't each ball joint like 3 hrs?

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post #5 of 15 Old 07-26-2011, 08:17 PM
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What?!?! that doesn't sound right... that is way too cheap, doing ball joints on a solid front axle is a PITA. I would double check everything lol some shops charge $120 hourly rate.. isn't each ball joint like 3 hrs?
I noticed that when I was going to do them myself. I have bought tires and had alignments and front end work done at this place for several years now and never had a problem. I'm pretty sure he originally quoted me $150 for the labor. I ordered a set of tires ($1000) and dropped the truck off to have them mounted, the ball joints installed, and an alignment. He called me to let me know it was done and asked me what he quoted me. I told him I thought $150 and when I paid them the receipt said $120 labor to install ball joints. The truck drives great now.

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post #6 of 15 Old 07-26-2011, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Younger, I've been reading this link, Ford Super Duty Ball Joint Replacement Procedure | Superdutypsd.com and trying to get tihe tools I need and everything ready. I'm hoping they can wait till i'm in school so I have excess to the shops tools but my tires are looking pretty ****ty. On the plus side, my tie rod ends and my inner axle shaft seal are all good, so hopefully its just ball joints and knuckle seal...Any other brands than MOOG I should be looking at? Are NAPA's HD Balljoints grease able?

2000 ford E-350 superduty: SOLD

95 f-250 94k original miles!: SOLD Also

Early 2004 Ford f-250 Lariat:
94 12v!
ARP studs
HX35 turbo
Pump tweaking
4" straight pipe to 5" tailpipe
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post #7 of 15 Old 07-26-2011, 08:39 PM
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Thanks Younger, I've been reading this link, Ford Super Duty Ball Joint Replacement Procedure | Superdutypsd.com and trying to get tihe tools I need and everything ready. I'm hoping they can wait till i'm in school so I have excess to the shops tools but my tires are looking pretty ****ty. On the plus side, my tie rod ends and my inner axle shaft seal are all good, so hopefully its just ball joints and knuckle seal...Any other brands than MOOG I should be looking at? Are NAPA's HD Balljoints grease able?
I rented the ball joint press from O reilys. I used a dewalt electric impact to press them out, it was huffing and puffing, and those poor threads were shedding on the c clamp but I got them out. I have some photos that I will post soon. And I don't know of any other ball joints than motor craft and moog. That is an excellent link to go to! Make sure you torque everything by spec as well. I'll give you a heads up, mine took 15 hrs. but the first for everything takes awhile. When you pull the axle shaft out, it is OK to have rust on it, as long as it stops where the outer seal is before it reaches the splines. Also, clean any other stray rust spots around the splines (my seals were leaking so I had a little rust)

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post #8 of 15 Old 07-26-2011, 08:45 PM Thread Starter
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I have all the tools available to me either at work(Diesel Mech intern), or at school, and what I dont have, I'll rent from somewhere. Does anyone know if Snap on or Matco or any of them have the seal driver for the knuckle seal? I looked at snap on's seal driver kit, but I don't think it comes with the right size.

2000 ford E-350 superduty: SOLD

95 f-250 94k original miles!: SOLD Also

Early 2004 Ford f-250 Lariat:
94 12v!
ARP studs
HX35 turbo
Pump tweaking
4" straight pipe to 5" tailpipe
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post #9 of 15 Old 07-26-2011, 09:00 PM
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I have all the tools available to me either at work(Diesel Mech intern), or at school, and what I dont have, I'll rent from somewhere. Does anyone know if Snap on or Matco or any of them have the seal driver for the knuckle seal? I looked at snap on's seal driver kit, but I don't think it comes with the right size.
snap on makes it, it doesn't come in a universal kit, just the drive and the heavy azz metal donut. it retails for $430 or so

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s362 over an s478
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post #10 of 15 Old 07-26-2011, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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I get my student discounts so I'm hoping I get a decent price on them..

2000 ford E-350 superduty: SOLD

95 f-250 94k original miles!: SOLD Also

Early 2004 Ford f-250 Lariat:
94 12v!
ARP studs
HX35 turbo
Pump tweaking
4" straight pipe to 5" tailpipe
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