06 F250 Slack In St. Wheel - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 9 Old 07-07-2011, 05:06 AM Thread Starter
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06 F250 Slack In St. Wheel

Hello. I understand there is an adjustment on the ps gearbox to take some slack out of the st. wheel as long as there are no worn out parts, of course. Has anyone heard of this or has anyone performed this adjustment? I had my alignment done a couple of weeks ago and all specs are set right, but there is still some side-to-side play in the st. The shop said I had no worn out parts...I trust them cause they have been in business over thirty years and lets face it they are there to make money so if there were any bad parts I'm sure they would have told me--haha. Thanks for any input you all might have.
--Chris
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post #2 of 9 Old 07-07-2011, 06:39 AM
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There is an adjustment screw to remove play on the gear box. Just make sure you turn the wheels about 1/2 way so your adjusting against a less worn part of the bearing and don't turn the bolt more than a 1/4 turn at a time.

This screw is technically for brand new boxes to adjust play so make sure you leave "some" play in the wheel so you don't end up binding the bearings.

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post #3 of 9 Old 07-07-2011, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Acidsniper View Post
There is an adjustment screw to remove play on the gear box. Just make sure you turn the wheels about 1/2 way so your adjusting against a less worn part of the bearing and don't turn the bolt more than a 1/4 turn at a time.

This screw is technically for brand new boxes to adjust play so make sure you leave "some" play in the wheel so you don't end up binding the bearings.
Thanks, my 05 wanders all over the road. I have checked all of the front end parts I'm going to give this a try and also Replace the stearing stablizer.
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post #4 of 9 Old 07-08-2011, 08:53 AM
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Awesome post, because I am looking to do the same, with 155000 miles, its gotten kinda lose. Where is said screw if you dont mind?

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post #5 of 9 Old 07-08-2011, 09:36 AM
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This is a bad idea. Most people who do this end up replacing there box VERY shortly afterwards. It is VERY easy to damage it.

It is designed to allow proper lash when first assembled. Not to take up play. Removing the slack in one position will make the box bind in another.



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post #6 of 9 Old 07-08-2011, 09:40 AM
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Here you go!

Start the truck.
Turn the wheels from left stop to right stop completely then back to the left approximately 45 degrees.
Shut the truck off.
Hold the meshload screw, loosen the lock nuts then adjust the meshload screw no more than turn at a time (Rotate clockwise to increase, counterclockwise to decrease)
Tighten locknut to 30Nm (23 lb-ft)
Start truck and turn from left stop to right stop completely then position the wheel at center. Test for play. If too much then repeat steps. DO NOT tighten the meshload screw to where there is no play in the steering wheel at all. This can cause you bearings to bind. You want some play in the steering wheel.


Since you’re doing this you could do a power steering flush as well.

Remove the reservoir cap.
Suction the fluid out of the reservoir (a turkey baster is what I’ve always used)
Disconnect the return hose. Plug the inlet port.
Attach an extension hose to the return hose and place in a bucket.
Fill the reservoir with new fluid.
Start the truck and turn the steering wheel all the way to the left then turn the truck off.
Refill the reservoir.
Start the truck and turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. Turn truck off.
Repeat filling the reservoir and turning from right to left until the fluid coming out of the line is clean as new.
Once done just reinstall the hose and fill the reservoir to the proper level.
DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES LET THE POWER STEERING RESERVOIR GO EMPTY!!! This can cause air in your pump and lines and lead to problems like poor steering, pump overheating and loss of power steering.



I don’t think I missed any steps anywhere, been a while since I’ve done it. I got the torque specs for the hold down nut after calling my dealership to ask what spec was.

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post #7 of 9 Old 07-08-2011, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dazdillenger View Post
This is a bad idea. Most people who do this end up replacing there box VERY shortly afterwards. It is VERY easy to damage it.

It is designed to allow proper lash when first assembled. Not to take up play. Removing the slack in one position will make the box bind in another.
Yup, hence my disclaimer above. This is the proper way to adjust lash in a new box. It can cause binding in the bearings. People can do it at their own risk. I did it to mine and have had no problems at all, but some people get greedy and want to take all of the play out of their steering wheels and that just leads to problems.

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post #8 of 9 Old 07-08-2011, 09:56 AM
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Ok awesome, I am definitely going to take the precaution into consideration! I just want to get some of the play out. And I was also wondering how to do a powersteering flush. I think you read my mind

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post #9 of 9 Old 07-08-2011, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phantom-3k View Post
Ok awesome, I am definitely going to take the precaution into consideration! I just want to get some of the play out. And I was also wondering how to do a powersteering flush. I think you read my mind
Haha np. I figured most people would have the same mentallity I did... What the hell, I'm under here screwing with the power steering might as well flush it while I'm at it...

Plus it's just one more excuse for me to break the tools out

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