Front axle shaft inner oil seals?

[06deezel]

I have an 2006 ford f250 4x4 and I noticed that I have a leak coming from the driver side axle shaft....i need to know if you have to remove the differential to get to the inner oil seals?....and where can i find the tool to install them? Thanks

[KCPowerStroker]

Bump, I need to know as well.

[F350Powerstroker]

It doesn't take a special tool to install the seals. You have to start by putting the truck on jack stands, tires off , disconnecting your tie rods (need to be off to get carrier out you will see in later steps), brake calipers, rotors,locking hubs and removing the diff cover. Behind the locking hubs (no matter factory or aftermarket) there will be a split ring that is around the stub outter axle shaft. Remove split ring and washers. Now that all the basics are out of the way you need to remove the wheel bearing hubs (4 studs but sometime the nut seizes on the stud so it comes out no big deal) Then you can use a puller or just some muscle and tapping in a circular motion with a good hammer or small sledge to get the hub loose. I never had to use a puller but if its old and rusty with some miles on them they can be a bear. You need to remove the wheel bearing hub because you need to pull the axle shafts. Even if you have only one side to replace you need to do the same steps to both sides because to get to the seals you need to pull the carrier out of the axle this requires both shaft to get out of the carrier. Once your hubs are loose and out simply pull the axle shafts out. Now it is time to remove the carrier assembly (what your ring gear is bolted too) It is held on by 4 bolts and 2 carrier bearing caps. Remember to put the caps back on exactly as removed. Use a punch and puch a mark on the top of each carrier bearing cap so you know what was on the top and what side! Now pull the carrier assembly out it will take a pry bar and some hit with a dead blow hammer it will come directly out careful though it got weight to it. DO NOT use a regular hammer and hit the ring gear just be smart on what you pry on and it will come. TIP: you can try putting a thick rag under the ring gear as you are prying almost pulling the rag towards the pinion-this stops it from spinning and help it "pop out". Once the carrier is out will see the seals. I usually punch the bad one out from the outter end of the axle tube with a long pipe. To install the new seal it does not take a special tool just take your time. Center the seal in the axle tube and slowly tap in making sure it stays center. I have a Bearing race and seal installer kit. The handle is to long to work in the housing but you can use the the flat circular end to put on the front of the seal to hit on so you hit it instead of the seal and helps drive it in straight. But you can just take your time and use a hammer hitting in a circular motion. Once it is in just reassemble opposite or removal and thats that! Some other notes when reinstalling the carrier a dead blow hammer is key (Plastic coated hammer filled with weight usually bright orange) cause it isn't gonna just slide back in you have to work it back in. When you get it back in tighten the caps back down to make sure it is seated correctly and then pull the caps back off and just make sure it is seated correctly. Once that is done torque to specs. At least torque the carrier bearing cap bolts and wheel bearing hub studs. I know some people just like to tighten things but don't mess around with this stuff and hulk them on lol. Also you will notice there are dust shields on the end of each axle tube those do not need to be removed there are also plastic cups "floating" around inside the axle tube those are in there to guide the axle shaft to the center of the seal if they are not in there for some reason buy them especially for the passenger side with the long axle shaft. Good luck and if you have any questions let me know!

[killacal]

Originally Posted by F350Powerstroker

It doesn't take a special tool to install the seals. You have to start by putting the truck on jack stands, tires off , disconnecting your tie rods (need to be off to get carrier out you will see in later steps), brake calipers, rotors,locking hubs and removing the diff cover. Behind the locking hubs (no matter factory or aftermarket) there will be a split ring that is around the stub outter axle shaft. Remove split ring and washers. Now that all the basics are out of the way you need to remove the wheel bearing hubs (4 studs but sometime the nut seizes on the stud so it comes out no big deal) Then you can use a puller or just some muscle and tapping in a circular motion with a good hammer or small sledge to get the hub loose. I never had to use a puller but if its old and rusty with some miles on them they can be a bear. You need to remove the wheel bearing hub because you need to pull the axle shafts. Even if you have only one side to replace you need to do the same steps to both sides because to get to the seals you need to pull the carrier out of the axle this requires both shaft to get out of the carrier. Once your hubs are loose and out simply pull the axle shafts out. Now it is time to remove the carrier assembly (what your ring gear is bolted too) It is held on by 4 bolts and 2 carrier bearing caps. Remember to put the caps back on exactly as removed. Use a punch and puch a mark on the top of each carrier bearing cap so you know what was on the top and what side! Now pull the carrier assembly out it will take a pry bar and some hit with a dead blow hammer it will come directly out careful though it got weight to it. DO NOT use a regular hammer and hit the ring gear just be smart on what you pry on and it will come. TIP: you can try putting a thick rag under the ring gear as you are prying almost pulling the rag towards the pinion-this stops it from spinning and help it "pop out". Once the carrier is out will see the seals. I usually punch the bad one out from the outter end of the axle tube with a long pipe. To install the new seal it does not take a special tool just take your time. Center the seal in the axle tube and slowly tap in making sure it stays center. I have a Bearing race and seal installer kit. The handle is to long to work in the housing but you can use the the flat circular end to put on the front of the seal to hit on so you hit it instead of the seal and helps drive it in straight. But you can just take your time and use a hammer hitting in a circular motion. Once it is in just reassemble opposite or removal and thats that! Some other notes when reinstalling the carrier a dead blow hammer is key (Plastic coated hammer filled with weight usually bright orange) cause it isn't gonna just slide back in you have to work it back in. When you get it back in tighten the caps back down to make sure it is seated correctly and then pull the caps back off and just make sure it is seated correctly. Once that is done torque to specs. At least torque the carrier bearing cap bolts and wheel bearing hub studs. I know some people just like to tighten things but don't mess around with this stuff and hulk them on lol. Also you will notice there are dust shields on the end of each axle tube those do not need to be removed there are also plastic cups "floating" around inside the axle tube those are in there to guide the axle shaft to the center of the seal if they are not in there for some reason buy them especially for the passenger side with the long axle shaft. Good luck and if you have any questions let me know!

Excellent Response! It looks like I'm going to be tackling this bear as well early next week and I have a few questions:

- What's the torque spec on the carrier bearing Cap Bolts?
- Do we need to replace the "seals" on the end of the axle tube at the axle shaft interface as a result of removing the shafts (you post seems to indicate no)?
- Do you have any pictures of this being done ( a picture is worth a thousand words)?

Thanks Again!

[NYC F-350]

For taking apart the front end up to the point of getting the axle out of the axle housing, check the "ball joint replacement" thread.
Heck, while you are replacing the inner axle seal, I would consider doing the balljoints. I would definitely do the u-joints on the axles.
The outer "dust" seal can be replaced, but be prepared to see it fail soon afterwards.

[F350Powerstroker]

Ill try to find my torque specs and let you know about the carrier bearing bolts. As for the dust shields (what looks like they would be outter seal) don't waste your time and money youll see how much junk gets past them anyways when you get everything apart. I never took any pictures of the process sorry had I been a member of this fourm back then I sure would have! NYC has a good point in replacing the ujoints on the axle shafts while you are in there but that aslo depends on your budget as well as the ball joints but thats a whole different ball game. And if you are kind on edge doing the ujoints or not just swivel them around if they feel really smooth and little resistance youre good but if they are super tight better replace. I know everybody has there own opinion but one of mine is i will NEVER buy greaseable ujoints EVER again....They are weaker garbage in my experiences. The only ones I have ever broken (driveshafts) were greaseable...Especially for the front ujoints the Ford non-greaseable joints are beefier then other greaseable ones i have seen.

[killacal]

Originally Posted by F350Powerstroker

Ill try to find my torque specs and let you know about the carrier bearing bolts. As for the dust shields (what looks like they would be outter seal) don't waste your time and money youll see how much junk gets past them anyways when you get everything apart. I never took any pictures of the process sorry had I been a member of this fourm back then I sure would have! NYC has a good point in replacing the ujoints on the axle shafts while you are in there but that aslo depends on your budget as well as the ball joints but thats a whole different ball game. And if you are kind on edge doing the ujoints or not just swivel them around if they feel really smooth and little resistance youre good but if they are super tight better replace. I know everybody has there own opinion but one of mine is i will NEVER buy greaseable ujoints EVER again....They are weaker garbage in my experiences. The only ones I have ever broken (driveshafts) were greaseable...Especially for the front ujoints the Ford non-greaseable joints are beefier then other greaseable ones i have seen.

Thanks for the tips! I had planned on at least checking the U-Joints/ Ball joints while I have the truck apart. It's never had either (or any other suspension part) and it has 96K miles on it... I'm sure I'm due for something.

I've been trying to find a repair manual for the truck... but I haven't been able to find one. I'm currently soliciting a friend of a friend that has an all data license to see if I can find the torque specs... no luck so far.

[NYC F-350]

eautorepair.net is cheaper than the manuals and will have all the torque specs you need and IS the manual. Think it is under 20 bucks for a year.

[sly1types]

Are these seals pretty prone to leaking? Is it worth it to replace the seals on both sides even though only one is leaking, while you have it all apart...

Thanks!

[NYC F-350]

If you take the side apart, absolutely replace the seals. If you have no plans to touch the other side, don't.