|
|
|
|
- HOME
- FORUMS
- GARAGE
- ARTICLES
- CHAT
- CLASSIFIEDS
- VIDEOS
- TECH
- STORE
- SPONSORS - - REGISTER - CALENDAR - SITE HELP - ARCADE - STAFF - MEMBERSHIP - GET A QUOTE |
|
Welcome to the Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum, the fastest growing Ford Diesel Community on the internet! You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us |
|
|||||||
|
|
|
![]() |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|||
|
Rear axle seal replacement
I was crawling around under my 2005 F250 4x4 today and noticed diff fluid leaking down both rear tires. I am picking up parts tomorrow from the dealer. The axle looks like a Dana 60 or 80 full floater. I have set up and rebuilt Dana 44's before but not a full floater. Are there any tricks or special tools I am going to need to complete this project? Any tips or advice from anyone that has done this before would be greatly appreciated. Looks like after I remove the Rotor there is 4 bolts to remove the hub and axle assembly, Seal should be in the tube and axle slides through it?
|
| Sponsored Links |
|
|
|
|||
|
|||
|
If the oil is running down the tires it sounds like you have a leaking wheel seal. If your truck is DRW then your axle will be a Dana 80. And if it is a SRW then your axle will be a Sterling 10.5. The procedure for changing a wheel seal is very similar on any full floating axle. You need to remove the wheel/tire, caliper and caliper anchor plate. Then you remove the axle shaft bolts and pull out the axle shaft. Once you have the axle shaft removed there is a nut that is holding the hub/rotor assembly onto the axle. The nut is a locking nut and you will need a special socket that releases the lock while you remove the nut. After that nut is removed you can remove the outer wheel bearing and pull hub/rotor assembly off of the axle. Once you have the hub removed you have to remove the seal from the back side of the hub and drive a new seal in. Ive got a ford workshop manual here that outlines the whole procedure with torque values and lots of other info. If you need anything just ask. Changing a wheel seal is not hard at all. I am a heavy duty mechanic and have changed hundreds of wheels seals on big rigs. I can have one done in approx 1 hour now including pulling the truck into the shop and waiting for parts to be delivered. Last edited by 6.0DSLPWR : 11-09-2009 at 08:57 PM. |
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
|
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
Here is a link to the socket that you will need. As far as I know there are quite a few companys making these sockets. KD tools is one. lisle is another, and the socket I own is made by CTA tools...I am sure there are more. Up here in Canada most auto parts stores have the socket so I am sure Napa will have it. I bought my socket from a store called Princess Auto which is the Harbour Freight of canada. So if you have a harbour freight near you the socket can probably he bought cheaper from them than napa. I am not sure of the identification numbers on the axle tags. But if your truck is a DRW(dual rear wheel) it will have a DANA 80 axle. And if your truck is a SRW(single rear wheel) it will have a sterling 10.5 axle. Not trying to bash ford but I have heard from quite a few people that they are way out too lunch on the pricing of there wheels seals for the DANA 80 axle. I just priced a wheel seal for my dads truck a few days ago at a local parts store and they wanted $20 for the sterling seal and $40 for the dana seal. I would highly suggest you price out the seals at ford and a parts store before rushing to ford for a seal. Also if the guys working at the parts stores near you are like the ones near me. They wont know the difference if you tell them your truck is a dual or single rear wheel or that you need a seal for a dana 80 or sterling 10.5. They will take your truck info(year make model) and the computer will list 2 seals for your truck...one will be a seal for a 10.5 diameter ring gear and one for a 11.25 ring gear. If your truck has a sterling axle you will need the seal for a 10.5 ring gear and if you have a dana axle you will need the seal for a 11.25 ring gear. Last edited by 6.0DSLPWR : 11-10-2009 at 06:41 PM. |
| Sponsored Links |
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|