Quote:
Originally Posted by chvyrkr81
^^^What he said. I'm in pretty deep on this thing, just to get it to hold bigish power, and I still don't have it.
You're gonna need a valve body too for that trans. And, maybe at least an input shaft, depending on how high you take it. Get ahold of BTS.
Then, forged rods. And you might as well stud 'em while you're in there. Early model 7.3 forged rods are holding over 600 no problem with the latest advances in tuning. That's the key though... So send the TS chip to Matt @ Gearhead, Tony @ Total Diesel Perfomance, Bill @ PHP, Jonathan @ Beans, or Swamps, etc...
You should also look at head studs, and valve springs, if you plan on pushing past 40# of boost. Do springs even if you don't. Factory springs will allow valve float at high RPM's, and if they hit the pistons...
For turbo's... A garret 38r is good to a smokey 500, maybe a touch more. A moddified H2E should be good up to 600 or so. After that you're lookin at 20 grand or more in mods to support the power so... We need to know your budget.
For injectors, I'd go with a shop that specializes in PSD. I will probably get some arguement here, but a shop that doesn't, IMHO, doesn't take the time to refine PSD injectors. PSD injectors don't even remotely resemble anything else, and require alot of unique equipment to refine so... Swamps or Rosewood, or Full Force (Casserly) is where I would look. 238 with an 80% nozzle should be good for 500 with supporting mods. 250-300 with a 200% should get you over 600, with supporting mods.
Anything more than a 200CC injector, and you're gonna NEED to upgrade your entire fuel system. In tank, pump, return, everything should be addressed.
Obviously, things vary. But my 600 is probaby gonna cost me close to 20k, but I've paid for some mods that I didn't need, and had to replace. If a guy bought the right product the first time, everytime, he could do it cheaper.
But what's the fun in that?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 361_euton
okay so anyway... what type of turbo should i get... ive been hearing alot about the H2e being a pretty good turbo but im pretty sure theres a better one out there... i dont see how a 140 HP chip... bigger turbo... fuel lines...lift pump, fuel pump... injectors would bring out over 400 HP... ive totalled it up and it brought me close to around 10,000 for the turbo, injectors, fuel lines, pump and other mods..
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Garret 38R for less than 500, A moddified H2E for over 500. You will probably need a 66mil or so, with a 19CM housing. H2E in "stock" form is no better than a 38R.
Garret = 1800
Moddified H2E = 3000
S300 variant + installation kit = at least 3000, depending on who you go through.
Your TS chip won't get you the power you need, safely. You WILL have issues tryin to get big power out canned tunes. You need custom tunes. Most custom tuners can reburn your TS chip however.
Reburn from most custom tuners = 175-300
Fuel system needs to be addressed. The entire thing.
DIY = 700-1000 depending on quality of parts used
CPR from Bob = 800-1400, you won't find a better complete kit.
ITP reg return, which still requires you to fab some stuff yourself if you delete the bowl = 600
Injectors capable of a safe 400 HP, or injectors capable of a safe 500 HP are gonna be two entirely different animals. You might be able to squeek 400 outa stage 1's (160CC with stock nozzles), but you would be better off with stage 2's (180-200CC typically with 30-80% nozzles). If you want 500 you'll need 238-250CC.
"stage 1's" = 1100ish
"stage 2's" = 1500 or more
"stage 3's" = 2500 or more
Injector install = 400ish
And the biggest issue I see with you "pushin some major horsepower and torque" outta that beast is the engine itself. You try to run over 400 for very long, or run up to 500, and IT WILL GO BOOM and blow 60 bucks worth of oil all over the bottom of the truck. YOU NEED RODS! You should stud it while you're in there too. Your rods, by nature of being a 2002 model 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel are Powder Cast Rods, or Powdered Metal Rods. They're made by taking a powder compound and compressing it to 50,000 PSI or something crazy like that. They are not as strong as forged rods. You will be running on borrowed time at high power levels. Period. So, when you crack that bad boy open to throw new rods in it, and find star patterned cracked pistons because the tuning was firing the injectors to early, or you romped on it alot with the EOT below normal, you'll be in it...
Main studs = 400
Early moddel forged rods = 500
After market forged or billet rods = 2500
Labor to install rods = 1500
Master rebuild kit, if pistons are cracked = 1100ish
OH, and don't let me forget. The valves on these things, have crappy springs. Your valves will float at high pressures and high RPM's. The piston at the top of it's stroke, is pretty darn close to the head, so if a valve is floating at say, 500HP, and the piston comes up and wacks it, CLANK, CLUNK, BOOM. 60 dollar undercarriage lube complete... And, the heads will only "handle" about 40 pounds of boost, and injectors cause higher cylinder pressures. So you'll need studs there too.
Head studs = 600
Valve springs (comp 910's) = 120
Labor = 400-600
So, let me get my calculator out...
All the cheapest options, skippin some things, might get 400HP =
$4695
DIY Labor (if you have the tools and equipment, but those cost money too) with mid range options 400HP=
$5495
DIY Labor with quality options 400HP =
$6620, no billet rods either...
DIY Labor with midrange options 500HP =
$8395
Quality options with Labor 500HP=
$13120
And, I may be forgettin some things. I'm sure I am as a matter of fact. HPOP for one. The factory 17* will leave you wanting at some point. I promise... Depending on which option you want =
$600-$3000
Oh, and I didn't even address the trans... So, whatever you end up spending on that...
The factory internals will be a time bomb at 500 though... FYI...
This is all off the top of my head, so my prices aren't 100% acurate, mostly there products I've looked at or considered.
Also, some of the products won't work with each other.
250CC injectors with aggressive nozzles are gonna need a kickin fuel system for one. Not a cheap DIY'er.
In general, add a couple grand to that. And it'll be about right... Trans, trac bars, at least one product breaking or malfunctioning...
And a 12V or CR 5.9 can make 400 pony's run all day long with about 2k. So, it depends on how competative you
actually wanna be...
500HP is gonna cost you 13500 without addin in the trans. I don't see many ways to make it very much cheaper.
So, pretty much what I said in my first post. But I hope this helps clear some things up. HP don't come cheap or easy in a 7.3. But in my humble opinion, it's worth it.
Last edited by chvyrkr81 : 10-30-2009 at 10:46 PM.